12k miles service

[Safara]

Hi All, sorry, me again

My bike is appraching 12k miles, and a couple of questions....

1. How important is it to do all the "Replace" items from the handbook?
At 12k miles these are :-

Oil

Oil Filter

Rubber Hose Inlet Manifold

Accelerator Cable

Rubber Hose Air Filter to Throtle Body

Clutch Cable

Fuel Pipe

Brake Fluid

Brake Pads

Brake Hose and Washers

Drive Chain and Sprocket Set

Rear Wheel Cush Drive Rubbers

Quite a list of bits to replace.......
Or, just inspect these things and get the oil/filter done.....

2. Is there a vast benefit from getting the dealer to do the service? IE, doing these things myself is easy enough, why pay a dealer to do it to get the stamp. I will probably be trading in or selling the bike for a new one in the next year or 2....

 

[Andyb]

Do you have a record of what has been done before?

Some things like brake fluid need changing on a time basis.
Some things like oil / filter changes are done either on time or miles.
Some things like chain and sprockets and brake pads are changed when they are worn. And cush drive rubbers are best changed then.

Also air filter replacement - that often gets ignored.

Then there are other jobs - valve adjustment for example is really due on miles.

Replacing clutch and throttle cables seems overkill if the originals are not frayed and slide easily - but early replacement stops roadside failures.

If you do the work yourself keep receipts for whatever you replace, and the old parts (like cables) may be worth keeping hold of.

 

[Overdrive]

Imo the important ‘must change’ things are oil, oil filter, air filter, + do a valve check. Air filters can look clean but not flow air very well. The remainder can be inspected and replaced if necessary, especially cables. Some people route spare cables close to the working ones, making replacement in the event of failure easier.

 

[RotorWrench]

Do yourself a favor and buy a cable luber. I've been lubing my cables regularly for the last 25yrs now and believe me, you'll increase the cable life 3 to 4 times over. Worthwhile investment and only takes a few minutes.

 

[Roy Gavin]

Fuel filter might need cleaning too, some tip and flush the tank when it is off for a valve check.
Vent / overflow hoses, etc, on early bikes were rubbish , injection fuel hose should have the grade on it and is usually decent quality.
Three quid buys you a gauge to check the condition of the brake fluid.
Radiator hoses are prone to rubbing/ chaffing - details somewhere on the site or just follow the hoses.
By the time the cush drive rubbers are gone the sprocket carrier bearing usually is too, and the wobbling does not do the split link any good either,
Spark plug will depend on type, but OEM might be best replaced, Irridium will last a lot longer.
No end to it really-----!

 

[Woodstock]

Do yourself a favor and buy a cable luber. I've been lubing my cables regularly for the last 25yrs now and believe me, you'll increase the cable life 3 to 4 times over. Worthwhile investment and only takes a few minutes.

Any suggestions for a cable luber (tool)? Thanks.

 

[RotorWrench]

I have several of these as I use them at work as well. This is a Motion Pro but several makes are available. Usually around $9 to $13.

 

[Woodstock]

I have several of these as I use them at work as well. This is a Motion Pro but several makes are available. Usually around $9 to $13.
View attachment 13273

Thank you, sir!

 

[Philos]

Any suggestions for a cable luber (tool)? Thanks.

I'm going to try one of these. They look superior to the Motion Pro's (which I have already). The problem with the Motion Pro's is, they are messy, with spray oozing out all over the place and, and sometimes they hardly work at all.

This new cable luber looks like they've done their homework..

motion-pro-cable-luber-v3-08-080609

 

[RotorWrench]

I'm going to try one of these. They look superior to the Motion Pro's (which I have already). The problem with the Motion Pro's is, they are messy, with spray oozing out all over the place and, and sometimes they hardly work at all.

This new cable luber looks like they've done their homework..

motion-pro-cable-luber-v3-08-080609

Those do look pretty cool. I might have to try one as well. I still like the original style for some applications , especially where I have the room to not have to remove the cable end. If I get a good clamp up on the cable I don't normally have too much mess.

You're right though, sometimes they won't work but usually it's because the cable is too gummed up for the meager spray can pressure to force it through. Infrequent lubing or too viscous old lube in the cable can cause that. In those cases I'll try forcing ACF50 or PB Blaster through the luber with shop air and let it sit awhile and then force air through again to blow the crap out. That often works. Wrapping both ends with a rag keeps the mess to a minimum for me.

That new style looks hard to pass up though .

 

[Roy Gavin]

The instructions with some cables stipulate that you blast a cleaner like WD40 through first, then a Lube.
I like the Auto firearm Legia spray lube as it lubes well and doesnt seem to harden or attract or hold dirt like some spray products.
Expensive, but good!

 

[RotorWrench]

The instructions with some cables stipulate that you blast a cleaner like WD40 through first, then a Lube.
I like the Auto firearm Legia spray lube as it lubes well and doesnt seem to harden or attract or hold dirt like some spray products.
Expensive, but good!

I had a customer a couple of years ago, recently moved from the UK, also recommend to me Legia spray. I had never heard of it and thought I knew most firearm lubes. Found out it was a Browning product but apparently we couldn't get it over here. Must be pretty good because he swore by it and this gentleman had no tolerance for inferior work or products!

 

[Philos]

Those do look pretty cool. I might have to try one as well. I still like the original style for some applications , especially where I have the room to not have to remove the cable end. If I get a good clamp up on the cable I don't normally have too much mess.

You're right though, sometimes they won't work but usually it's because the cable is too gummed up for the meager spray can pressure to force it through. Infrequent lubing or too viscous old lube in the cable can cause that. In those cases I'll try forcing ACF50 or PB Blaster through the luber with shop air and let it sit awhile and then force air through again to blow the crap out. That often works. Wrapping both ends with a rag keeps the mess to a minimum for me.

That new style looks hard to pass up though .

I ordered one yesterday.. Not cheap but looks pretty good. I'll report back when I give it a try.

 

[RotorWrench]

I ordered one yesterday.. Not cheap but looks pretty good. I'll report back when I give it a try.

I'd especially like to know what the inside depth and diameter are, where the cable end goes as some of the cables I use the old style on have larger ends than most motorcycle cables. It'd be nice to be able to use that style on those as well.