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2000 Bullet 500 died while stopped at light & difficult shifting

R

Ram31280

Total noob
Location
Manhattan Illinois, USA
I've had my 2000 Bullet for about 8 months, (I think I am the 3rd or 4th owner) I've put about 500 miles on it so far, I love it and have had very few problems with it, but the minor issues I have are that once I've been riding it a while and everything it warm it will often sputter out if I don't throttle it at a stop sign or light while in gear with the clutch held. I adjusted idle screw on the carb on my last ride, and it didn't happen, but the resting idle sounds really high now, so I'm curious if there is a better middle ground.
Another issue when it's warmed up the gears can be harder to shift through, I have to put a lot more force to shift up into 2nd, 3rd, and 4th gear, so I was wondering if anyone had similar issues.
3rd minor issue is the hose between the carb and the flange doesn't sit flush against the flange due to the bolts, so the hose clamp barely has any of the flange to clamp down onto. I've seen some flanges that look like they could clamp directly onto the carb and eliminate the hose in between them, but some have a vent port and some don't, so I'm not sure which I would use if I do swap that out.
 
Any bike stopping when warm like that could be a coil or maybe the ignition unit (if it isn't points).
A hard shifting gearbox can be caused by low, worng SAE or very old oil.
I don't know anything about the 500s so can't suggest anything about the other bits other than go on Hitchcocks and use the parts diagrams for similar models to see what fits what.
 
Does the bike have a left side shift? If so, that's the problem. To be imported they had to convert them to a left shift, using about five pounds of Mickey Mouse linkage. Buy the kit to convert it back to a right side shift, and it will be much easier.

Other advantages, using the same foot for shifting and the neutral finder. And you can reach the side stand while sitting on the bike.

There was a kit to tighten up the left hand shift linkage which might still be available. But the right shift is how God intended it.

Also the shift mechanism is adjustable. It's behind the outer gearbox cover, which can be removed without dumping the gear grease.

The conversion kit will require removing the inner cover which will dump the grease. Which can be found at some farm equipment dealers.

The rubber tube between the carb and the head is notorious for cracking. Maybe it got replaced with something that almost fit. If it's sucking air, that could be part of the idle problem.

If it won't idle down when it's hot, it could be the ignition timing. The factory advance springs are weak, which can cause it to advance early.

Hitchcock's will have everything. Get a new carb boot (get two), the shift kit, and a tune up kit with upgraded advance springs. Also the cheap top dead center tool, if you don't already have a dial indicator. They will also have the grease.

Hitchcock's also has a downloadable service manual.

Workshop Manuals To Download

accessories.hitchcocksmotorcycles.com accessories.hitchcocksmotorcycles.com
 
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The gearbox on my kick only '04 was filled with 00 grease. (I've been told that '03 was the last year for the kick only, 4 speed. But mine was titled as an '04, with a mfg date of 1/04). The bearings in the right side, inner cover were not sealed.

I did the the sealed bearing conversion so I could run hypoid oil. But because there was no seal on the shift shaft bushing, on the back of the case, I switched back to grease.

Just my experience. I don't pretend to be an expert.
 
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StefArmstg said:
The gearbox on my kick only '04 was filled with 00 grease. (I've been told that '03 was the last year for the kick only, 4 speed. But mine was titled as an '04, with a mfg date of 1/04). The bearings in the right side, inner cover were not sealed.

I did the the sealed bearing conversion so I could run hypoid oil. But because there was no seal on the shift shaft bushing, on the back of the case, I switched back to grease.

Just my experience. I don't pretend to be an expert.
Click to expand...

2004 is correct.
 
Radiator hose cut to length out lasts the original intake rubbers by at least 10:1

The wire between the points and coil has a bullet connector located behind the battery box. That gave trouble like you describe often enough that folks would replace the bullet connectors with blade connectors as a preventative measure.
 
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