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411 handlebar upgrade and tips for getting the bar end Allen bolt out

I didn’t have any problem in getting my end bolts out in order to fit some hand guards. The hand guards (Enfield ones) came with new end weights and bolts and fitting took all of 10 minutes.
Use a well fitting Allen key seated fully into the bolt. The bolts are quite substantial so won’t snap easily, you are more likely to round off the Allen bolt head if you don’t use a well fitting key. You can try heat, but you will probably damage the grips or paintwork.
 
I think the problem with the bolts is that they are different metal than the weights, so everything tends to corrode into place. You can try penetrating oil and, as @AdrianS says, make sure to use the correct Allen wrench. Once the penetrating oil has had a chance to work, give it a good smack with a soft-faced hammer, then try it.
 
OldGuy said:
I think the problem with the bolts is that they are different metal than the weights, so everything tends to corrode into place. You can try penetrating oil and, as @AdrianS says, make sure to use the correct Allen wrench. Once the penetrating oil has had a chance to work, give it a good smack with a soft-faced hammer, then try it.
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I don’t think it would be a problem if the bolts corrode to the weights as the weights would just turn with the bolts when unscrewing. More likely if threadlock is used - especially if too much is used!
 
jayedd112 said:
sorry another daft question - the thread goes the same way both sides? left to loosen
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For the end weights, yes to standard threading. I had a replacement bar and they changed the depth of the internal threaded portion so had to get new bolts. They were just standard threads on both sides.

Mirrors are threaded left and right in case you need to know.
 
tom_d said:
For the end weights, yes to standard threading. I had a replacement bar and they changed the depth of the internal threaded portion so had to get new bolts. They were just standard threads on both sides.

Mirrors are threaded left and right in case you need to know.
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thank you and everyone else for answering daft questions
 
jayedd112 said:
Hi all, as the title says, any recommendations for bar upgrade? also, any tips for getting th Allen bolt out of the bar end, it seems solid in there and I have read they snap.
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On my Meteor 350, I managed to snap one of those bolts: https://www.royalenfieldowners.com/...-broke-bar-end-bolt-any-tips-tricks-etc.9457/

The most common recommendation seemed to be adding heat.

I think -- across the various RE models -- the degree of difficulty stems from how much and what kind of threadlocker any given assembly line worker felt like gobbing on.
 
RE also puts their pink bubble gum—I mean, thread locker—on these bolts. If you can beg, borrow, rent or steal an induction heater, it could make your life much easier. I used one of these to get the bolts out of my 450's bar-end weights, and it made the job incredibly easy, melted the thread locker without scorching the grips, and the bolts turned out with ease.

If you're not familiar with induction heaters, here's the model I borrowed from my friend the mechanic:

hot rod heater.jpg

The coil (which is replaceable and comes in several sizes) slips over the end of the bar. It induces a magnetic field and current in the metal parts inside it, heating them up. Because it only heats metal, it doesn't burn the grips. Because the bar-end weights are outside the bolt, they get heated first and break the thread locker and/or corrosion between the bolt and weights. Neat.

I don't use this thing enough to justify owning one (especially since I can borrow it from a friend), but I think they can be rented at tool/equipment rental places. And when I needed one, there was really no substitute. When I changed steering head bearings on my 411, I had to get the lower inner race off the steering stem without damaging the lower seal (the seal was out of stock). A minute or two with the induction heater, and the race enlarged enough to be popped off with a couple taps of a chisel, leaving the seal undamaged. And when I had to get the exhaust system on my 1980 Yamaha apart... this thing got the nuts cherry red while the bolts were still cool to the touch. Neat.
 
Add some heat if you want to. Unfortunately you will need to add a considerable amount to loosen any threadlock.
I would just get a well fitting, well seated Allen key and go gently at the bolt and hopefully all will be ok. Don’t rush, I’m sure the bolts will all undo without any dramas.
 
Good to hear you resolved the tight bolt issue, the bars I found suited me were the RE adventure bars without bars risers. I had tried AOM bars, but found the RE bars better.
 
Being a Lancastrian, I used to ride up and around the trough of Bowland in the summer, as well as some tricky green lanes up there.
The RE Adventure bars are braced and a bit wider than stock, they seem to be angled just right for me.
 
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