Bar Risers

[RotorWrench]

After researching the forum it appears that most that have installed bar risers have been able to go up to 30mm without cable issues. Anyone with contrary experience?

Also, I'm looking for a rise and setback. The stock handlebar setup is a little forward for me. So far Rox seems to have the best options for up and back risers. Any other recommendations?

Thanks

 

[hamx5ter]

i put in 30mm risers... i don't need them; i'm a midget, but i bought them from TEC with a bunch of other things so i chucked it in.

I found it made the clutch cable quite taut when turned to the right. I dropped the bike twice doing very slow cone weaves. I've previously done the same weaves quite comfortably and without incident, so i don't know whether that was the cable being tight / the new bar position being different or just plain user error. We put the bike on the centre stand and did the lock to lock thing, and the revs did NOT change so while the clutch cable DID get taut it didn't seem to be pulling in the clutch.

I have since taken off the risers and on the test ride after immediately noticed that the bars were more lively. In retrospect, the front wheel certainly felt heavier with the increased height. Again not sure if that's the riser or the cable or just a new ergo I wasn't used to.

I haven't done much riding since then, leave alone the slow cone weave, so i don't know if my newfound ability to drop the bike at random has been cured since the bar riser deletion.

 

[RotorWrench]

Thanks for the heads up. I'm not a tall guy by any means either but I find the bars a little forward for me compared to my other bikes and just a little low when riding on the pegs. Maybe something a little lower than 30mm would be better for the cables. I"ll do more looking.

 

[Roy Gavin]

Hitchcocks do a up and back riser which works with stock cables.
RE bolt centers are a little different to most , so you may have to do a little filing with risers other than H's.

 

[RotorWrench]

Thanks, I"d figured I have to possibly do a little modification depending on what I went with but I"d rather have plug-n-play.

 

[grymsr]

the risers I put on my 2020 are great but the front brake hose is rather taut. I
m looking for a custom hose company to see if I can get a slightly longer one.

 

[CycloneRanger72]

I have the risers that I just removed from my Interceptor like new pay for shipping and they are yours. Will need zip code to figure shipping can UPS from my job this week. These risers are made by ROX Speed FX

 

[RotorWrench]

I have the risers that I just removed from my Interceptor like new pay for shipping and they are yours. Will need zip code to figure shipping can UPS from my job this week. These risers are made by ROX Speed FX

Sure, what style? Of the Rox risers I would need the ones that are swept back or the pivot style. If yours are either of those styles and under a 30mm rise I'll take them if they're less than Hitchcocks and they fit the Himalayan.

Right now the Hitchcock risers look like what I'm going for unless the Rox are sure to fit without modification. Thanks

 

[RotorWrench]

the risers I put on my 2020 are great but the front brake hose is rather taut. I
m looking for a custom hose company to see if I can get a slightly longer one.

What make, model and rise do you have?

 

[grymsr]

royal enfield himalayan 2019. inch rise below bars now. Rox website says you need at least 1" to use the speed FX models

 

[RotorWrench]

royal enfield himalayan 2019. inch rise below bars now. Rox website says you need at least 1" to use the speed FX models

Is Speed FX what you have now?

 

[RotorWrench]

I have the risers that I just removed from my Interceptor like new pay for shipping and they are yours. Will need zip code to figure shipping can UPS from my job this week. These risers are made by ROX Speed FX

While I appreciate very much the offer, after checking the Rox site it appears that they don't have a Speed FX model with less than a 1.75" rise and it appears that anything over 1.18" (30mm) is giving people cable problems, so I have to regretfully decline.

Thanks again!

 

[grymsr]

Is Speed FX what you have now?

Sorry, somehow I missed your post. Yes, they are Rox Speed FX. I got them cheaper (but not cheap) as they were an open box item.

 

[grasscutter]

I just put 2" (50mm) risers on mine. You have to get creative to make it work, but it will work. One good thing about pulling the tank was seeing the messed up way the wiring was crammed in there. I modded it to a much cleaner setup. It takes a bit of time to go through that. You can also get some gain by moving the brake and clutch lever in on the handlebar. For pulling the tank, check out old man ronin on youtube. Good info there.

 

[RotorWrench]

I just put 2" (50mm) risers on mine. You have to get creative to make it work, but it will work. One good thing about pulling the tank was seeing the messed up way the wiring was crammed in there. I modded it to a much cleaner setup. It takes a bit of time to go through that. You can also get some gain by moving the brake and clutch lever in on the handlebar. For pulling the tank, check out old man ronin on youtube. Good info there.

I think I'm going to give the Hitchcock's a try. I like that they angle back a little.

No real problems with the tank removal or install except for the metal cups for the rubber frame supports scraping wires. That's now resolved. I have to say that I was pleasantly surprised that my wire harnesses were as clean and neat as they were the first time I did remove the tank. A little thick though.

 

[Morgan60]

LOL! I just took a Himalayan top handlebar clamp and flipped it, put it under the handle bars, that gave me all I needed and it was easy and cheap.

 

[RotorWrench]

I've seen that done on the Himalayan and while the height would probably work for me, I want a little sweep back as well. I could get that by upgrading my bar but I'm not dealing with that until next year.

 

[grasscutter]

These are the ones I put on. I changed out the Himie stock allen head bolts for stainless hex head. That allows for easier tightening in a tight space, especially if you want to sweep them back some. I've seen risers at 1.5 inches but they were cast, and I preferred the machined ones. These were about half the price of Rox risers, but I can't attest to the quality difference.

APE RACING Pivoting Handlebar Clamp Risers 2" Raise Black For 7/8" or 1 1/8" Handlebars Mount To 1-1/8" Stem Clamp

APE RACING FEATURED PRODUCTS ✔️HEAVEY DUTY - Made by billet 6061-T6 aluminum with completely CNC machined, hard anodized and blasting surface treatemt. We DON'T USE CASTING alumimum. ✔️POLYMER ADAPTERS - APE Racing featured handlebar adapter made by high performance polymer which gives you the...

ape-racing.com

 

[RotorWrench]

These are the ones I put on. I changed out the Himie stock allen head bolts for stainless hex head. That allows for easier tightening in a tight space, especially if you want to sweep them back some. I've seen risers at 1.5 inches but they were cast, and I preferred the machined ones. These were about half the price of Rox risers, but I can't attest to the quality difference.

APE RACING Pivoting Handlebar Clamp Risers 2" Raise Black For 7/8" or 1 1/8" Handlebars Mount To 1-1/8" Stem Clamp

APE RACING FEATURED PRODUCTS ✔️HEAVEY DUTY - Made by billet 6061-T6 aluminum with completely CNC machined, hard anodized and blasting surface treatemt. We DON'T USE CASTING alumimum. ✔️POLYMER ADAPTERS - APE Racing featured handlebar adapter made by high performance polymer which gives you the...

ape-racing.com

Did you have any cable binding issues. I'll be pivoting them back about an inch as well.

 

[grasscutter]

You may not need to go back that far. They move toward you some as you raise them. I did have line and cable issues, mainly the clutch cable and the brake line. The clutch cable I remedied by moving the clutch lever assembly in on the handlebar. Also, there's a frame clamp by the engine. I ran the cable inside of the the little metal stay on the clamp. That took care of that. The brake line was a different matter. For that, I removed the top clamp at the front of the tank. It was rubbing there and putting pressure against the tank and the bolt there, so I pulled that completely off. I left the rubber grommet. I did that on the other side and worked on the gob of wires that are inside of a rubber sleeve. They were also pushing on the tank. I used zip ties to close that rubber cup up and then pushed it an zip tied it behind the head stock. I also cut the wire tie holding the break line at the reservoir on the frame. I rerouted the fuel line to the other side of the brake line so that it could move forward. Then I zip tied the brake line to the rear upper motor support. I also moved the brake lever assembly in on the handlebar. Right lock is no problem, which is how I lock it. Left lock the brake line is a little snug, but I can wiggle it with my hand.