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Dum Dum Bullet

Greenmount Hill https://www.google.com/search?q=gre...cHMS4wLjcuM6AHhnU&sclient=mobile-gws-wiz-serp
is a good test of adequacy about a 70km round trip from Home.
A few weeks back I rode up the "hill' on my 350cc Bullet it would have been nearly 10 degrees C cooler, I was unable to hold the 80kph speed limit in 5th gear .
This morning I was able to not only hold the speed limit in 5th but accelerate as well with 410cc.
Previously on the Flat I could get 30kph in 1st 50 in 2nd and 70 in 3rd, now it's 40 kph in 1st 60 in 2nd and 80 in 3rd.
Dyno test in a couple of weeks. Butt Dyno thinks 15 to 20 %.
 
Back from a 6 week break in Hot Thailand I return to a cooling Southern Hemisphere.
Time for a Dyno run and a few changes to the program.
The bike will be Dynoed as, "stock plus.
Capacity increase of 61cc, decat pipe, stock muffler and inlet with cover removed".
So I dismantled it today removing the Modded head and HMC Cam and Indoori muffler.
2 base gaskets, stock head I am expecting a compression pressure of around 195psi with this build .
This way I am setting it closer to the Dyno runs done by Hitchcocks on the J plus Cam, to show the benefits ( if any!)
of just an increase in capacity.
My intention is to find a cheap upgrade for this great little bike that only lacks a bit extra.
The RE tools recommend for this job I consider to be rubbish, firstly their Cam locking tool has a tapered locater pin that is not only loose in the tool as well as loose in the Cam so a degree or 2 of innacuracy.
The TDC locking tool requires the removal of the clutch cover and therfore the dropping of the Oil and a Gasket replacement as well as lining up the clutch disengagement, that just adds heaps to the work load and little benifit.
As has been seen with the Himalayan that is seen as not requiring such an accurate setting approach, the science is not accepted by most here who disagree with my adjustable sprocket for the Himalayan .
That said I believe the valve timing is actually important so I have come up with this alternative system.
A tool to create a physical stop that can be read with a timing wheel to set TDC.
Not an original concept, but better than an Oil change and Gasket replacement IMO.
20250416_085827.jpg
20250416_114127.jpg
The proof is in the Pudding they say, start up tomorrow.
 
Well stuff me!:(
Compression test reveals 165psi !
So 2 base gaskets may be a mistake.
Anyhow the bike runs great and on setting 4 of the fx pro +, ie one above stock setting the AFR Meter shows high 13s and low 14s.
Having the stock Muffler makes for a quiet ride, did a 2 hour run down and back on our freeway where 100kph is the limit.
We have all seen the "disclaimer" about comparing Dynos by Hitchcocks.
They are right, Dynos can not be compared, but percentage increases can certainly be.
My Dyno run will( hope so anyhow :)) show the difference between a bigger displacement and just the Hitchcock's Cam.
The cam is the easiest change/improvement but perhaps the displacement increase is a better option and retains more of the original low torque that makes this Bike special 😉

Easter is finished and the Bike shop is open tomorrow 🙌
 
The exact percentages will be different between any two runs...on the same dyno. Numbers are important but
the shape of power curve is the real meat and potatoes of it.

For dyno charts curve shapes to be comparable the charts must include the Correction Factor and Smoothing settings.

___________________________________


Dool, the two gaskets and 165 psi is a very valuable data point and useful information for riders in regions where premium gas isn't available at every single pump.
👍
 
Took the Bullet :rolleyes:
on a 100km run today with a mostly freeway route, GPS 105kph Max, gets windy after that!
I think that the people disappointed with the 350 J series would be pleasantly surprised with this mod.
I did not notice any vibration or discomfort, mirrors are ok, bike doesn't feel overstressed. I watched the AFR Meter closely, perhaps too closely as I missed a couple of ⚠️ on Waze of Police speed cameras ( working on the assumption that they didn't see my rear and only number plate :unsure:) near Stoich according to my meter, high 13s and low 14s.
No nasty smells when I shut down and no signs of over heating.
I am running 91ron (lawnmower fuel!) I feel I may be ageing :confused:
 
Thanks for that! :love:
I never buy 91ron, I don't know if it is a Class thing or I am just totally stupid🤔 perhaps I have been suckered in to the belief that it's a lower quality than Premium.🙂 I don't have much luck with my lawnmower any how!
The big difference between this Build on the Bullet opposed to my Himalayans is the ECU which because of the Euro 5 restrictions is preventing me from bypassing them:( ( running a Programmable ECU on the Himalayan had its ups and downs but not being able to adjust the ignition timing is the limiting factor here )IMO.
But I am happy to be able to do 100 to 110kph Max, it is not a rocket, it's a BULLET 😂
 
Dool2 said:
Took the Bullet :rolleyes:
on a 100km run today with a mostly freeway route, GPS 105kph Max, gets windy after that!
I think that the people disappointed with the 350 J series would be pleasantly surprised with this mod.
I did not notice any vibration or discomfort, mirrors are ok, bike doesn't feel overstressed. I watched the AFR Meter closely, perhaps too closely as I missed a couple of ⚠ on Waze of Police speed cameras ( working on the assumption that they didn't see my rear and only number plate :unsure:) near Stoich according to my meter, high 13s and low 14s.
No nasty smells when I shut down and no signs of over heating.
I am running 91ron (lawnmower fuel!) I feel I may be ageing :confused:
Click to expand...
If I have this straight, this is with(?):
1-The big bore kit
2-Two base gaskets
3-FXP+ on "4"
4-Hitchcock's cam
Just wanted to make sure I was on the most recent rendition of your build. ;)
 
Sorry, fx set at zero (number 3)
2 base gaskets about 1mm
Decat with stock Muffler
411 kit
Stock head , Valves etc
OEM Cam
Air filter cover removed.

Cheap option!
 
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Reactions: 2LZ
Dool2 said:
Sorry, fx set at zero (number 3)
2 base gaskets about 1mm
Decat with stock Muffler
411 kit
Stock head , Valves etc
OEM Cam
Air filter cover removed.

Cheap option!
Click to expand...
Thanks for the quick update! (y):)

I'm in a quandary with Pyle. I knew going in that it wouldn't be a fast or performance bike, by any stretch of the imagination. The build was strictly for appearance, as a tribute build....but....but....but....it's so tempting to do more than the normal breathing mods I've done (DNA kit, decat pipe, muffler).

I just don't really know if going any further would really be worth it. I know the China cam made the biggest difference on my Scram. I've seen online that the performance cam for the J350 gives you more mid and top end, but slightly hurts the bottom end torque, not that these will yank your elbows out of socket, anyway. :rolleyes:
....and then there's the Fuel X decision. Do I.....which one....and will it make a difference?
 
2LZ said:
Thanks for the quick update! (y):)

I'm in a quandary with Pyle. I knew going in that it wouldn't be a fast or performance bike, by any stretch of the imagination. The build was s
I would skip the fx and the trictly for appearance, as a tribute build....but....but....but....it's so tempting to do more than the normal breathing mods I've done (DNA kit, decat pipe, muffler).

I just don't really know if going any further would really be worth it. I know the China cam made the biggest difference on my Scram. I've seen online that the performance cam for the J350 gives you more mid and top end, but slightly hurts the bottom end torque, not that these will yank your elbows out of socket, anyway. :rolleyes:
....and then there's the Fuel X decision. Do I.....which one....and will it make a difference?
Click to expand...
I would skip the Cam, and go for the displacement increase, this is never going to be the monster I created with the Himalayan Euro 4 as throttle body and other increases like reprogrammable ECU will not be possible.
I will have a run in kit for sale as soon as I get this dynoed and go to 477.
 
It is possible I think without too much work to get to 486cc without opening the case.
Done this way with displacement increases the character of the engine and it just gets better whereas the cam shifts the power, as it is speed limited the top end is not so important as low down torque.
For what it is worth :cool:
 
Hi Dool, not sure if you know about this already, but the crew who make the Fuel-X also make the PowerTRONIC, it's a programmable piggyback ECU, according to the info on the site it also does away with the speed limiter. It's of no use to me as I already have the Fuel-X...but with your excursions into the limits of these J Series engines it might be good for you...links below

https://powertronicecu.com/product/powertronic-royal-enfield-classic-meteor-hunter-350-2021-2025/

https://powertronicecu.com/
 
Neil Samui said:
Hi Dool, not sure if you know about this already, but the crew who make the Fuel-X also make the PowerTRONIC, it's a programmable piggyback ECU, according to the info on the site it also does away with the speed limiter. It's of no use to me as I already have the Fuel-X...but with your excursions into the limits of these J Series engines it might be good for you...links below

https://powertronicecu.com/product/powertronic-royal-enfield-classic-meteor-hunter-350-2021-2025/

https://powertronicecu.com/
Click to expand...
Hoping it is a good product, I bought one second hand along with a used 477cc kit, haven't installed it yet as I am going up in stages.
Not sure about the speed limiter,.I think its a rev limiter they claim but anyhow I'm sure it will be fast enough.
Still waiting for a Dyno run so I can take it to the next level ;)
 
Got a problem in DUM DUM land, a problem of my own making.
I premised this build on access to a particular Dyno machine.
This was done in part because I thought I could utilise state of the art Dyno which could produce print outs that include all the so called relevant information like the "Masters" Tec And HMC include on theirs.
I should have hedged my bets by getting a base run on the Dyno I had always used but saved a mere A$100 (around 62 US$) and blew that opportunity.
Now through circumstances out of my control that Dyno has been out of action for a few months and I am impatient to make changes.
I have a 477 kit to install and want to experiment with 486, I even thought to try and squeeze in a Carby that looks to be short enough to fit.
If I get runs on the old Dyno I would be stuck to comparing it with the runs of my Himalayans so the base line is unknown.
🤔 🤔 :(
 
20250506_101217.jpg
Might give it a bit more fuel!
The fx pro + has been set to 3, ie off and it performs well but as I can not be 100% sure that my AFR meter is correct a bit more Petrol could be insurance.
 
That does look 'new car lean'.

OTOH, the factory assumes they have enough cooling for sitting stationary at stock settings according to a lot of the procedures. Which would be reasonable if your think about the 20+ hour long traffic jams in some of RE's main target markets with the J series...
 
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