• NEW USERS: If you haven't received your Confirmation Email: There has been an ongoing issue with the forum's send mail function and many new users haven't received the email to confirm their registration. I've done my best to manually process these, so there's a good chance if you've signed up in the past 30 days that you've already been validated and can proceed with posting on the forum (don't forget to introduce yourself!). If you still can't get in, please use the Contact Us link on the bottom of any page to send me a message and I'll process you manually. Thanks for your patience! ~Jerk

Evap System removal

C

cwadej

Well travelled
Location
San Diego
EDIT: KennyBooBear (with assistance of ScottFree on ADV) has identified a flaw with the following. Corrections in red below


Removed the evap system. Frees up a couple pounds.
I didnt take any pictures, but here's the steps.

I pulled the evap system today.
1- Unplug and remove O2 sensor from header. 17mm wrench
2- Remove the entire exhaust, it blocks 2 bolts.
(1) 12mm bolt and 12mm nut behind passenger peg. (2) 12 mm nuts at the header to block. It's a pain, you may need a swivel for the ratchet due to horn, or remove the horn and bracket, 12mm bolt.
3- Remove the skid plate bolts, 10mm (2) front, (2) left, (2) right
4- Remove evap system from skidplate. (2) pinch clamps for hoses, both on left side of the system. Remove the clamps from the (2) hoses. (4) 4mm hex head screws on the bottom of skidplate. These are pretty soft and the hex will strip very easily.
5-Reinstall skidplate with (6) 10mm bolts. Get them all in about 1/2 way before tightening any.
6-Remove tank bolts, (2) 10mm bolts. (Removing tank NOT required, but helps. Unplug FI pump and fuel line on right side. Raise rear of tank, unplug blue connector, drain on left, and vent on right.)
The correct method for steps 7-10 is to simply cap off the opening to the throttle body and take the hose that previously ran from TB to the EVAP Canister and instead route it from the vent down behind the swingarm beside the purge tube that is already routed there.
7-Pull the vent hose (right side of tank) off the bike.
8-Find the other hose that was attached to the evap system. This one snakes behind the crank case up in front of airbox to the throttle body on right side of bike. Leave it attached to throttle body, pull the loose end up to the top.
9-If you removed the tank, set it back in place.
10-route the hose from the throttle body to the tank vent on right side of tank.
11- leaving a few inches of slack, cut the hose.
12- Reinstall gas tank. Dont forget the blue plug on left side.
13- Reinstall exhaust.
14-Reinstall O2 sensor. Dont forget to plug it in.
15- Go ride. Find somewhere offroad, this bike doesnt mind at all

If you get the amber check engine light, you probably didn't plug in the blue connector or the O2 sensor. Lug them in. The light will reset, I think it takes 5 on/off cycles of the key.

Sorry I didnt take any pictures, I'm a slacker
 
Last edited:
Eatmore Mudd

Eatmore Mudd

Moderator
Staff member
Location
The Pacific Nothwet
No matter what the brand of bike, whoever the suppliers of the vapor flow direction valves are they need to up their game imho. Flow direction valves with springs that are too stiff or too weak and the seals that leak ( making the bike nor run like it should) have caused more runability problems and more evapss to "fall off" than I can shake a stick at.
 
Sidequestadventure

Sidequestadventure

Finally made it
Location
SF Bay Area
Has it been known to cause issues? My bike is apart right now for the 300 mile service and I'm considering removing it just to get rid of all the extra tubing simply for ascetics
 
C

cwadej

Well travelled
Location
San Diego
I dont know of any issues caused by it (other than pinched vent line), but I did it for the weight. On a bike with this much power I want every bit I can get. I can't see how its an aesthetics issue as the system is completely out of sight.
 
Eatmore Mudd

Eatmore Mudd

Moderator
Staff member
Location
The Pacific Nothwet
Sometimes the springs in evap valves are too stiff or too weak so they work too early, too late or don't let the tank vent into the charcoal can causing pressure build up and gas fizzing out the key lock relief. They can also cause no inward venting and then the fuel pump is pulling the fuel down which builds a vucume in the tank and causes fuel starvation. They can leak internally which causes the engine to run lean.....

Edit to fix spelling and whatnot.
Lesson learned: avoid poasting from smrtphones with tiny keeboreds.
 
Last edited:
Jimnich

Jimnich

Getting there...
Location
Herefordshire UK
My bike cut out when accelerating quite hard uphill. When I eased off and changed down it cut back in but wouldn't take a wide throttle. Put it down to a glitch but when I filled up a little later the tank was pressurised severely . Later I lifted the tank pulled the evap hose and again the tank was pressurised( moderstely) . The hose was not kinked. Faulty evap valve?
Might this also explain my high idle problems?
 
Eatmore Mudd

Eatmore Mudd

Moderator
Staff member
Location
The Pacific Nothwet
Jimnich said:
My bike cut out when accelerating quite hard uphill. When I eased off and changed down it cut back in but wouldn't take a wide throttle. Put it down to a glitch but when I filled up a little later the tank was pressurised severely . Later I lifted the tank pulled the evap hose and again the tank was pressurised( moderstely) . The hose was not kinked. Faulty evap valve?
Might this also explain my high idle problems?
Click to expand...
You could do a field test. Drop the skid plate to acess the evap sysytem, find the hose that goes to the intake pull it off the valve and plug it with a golf tee. Find the vent hose that goes to the tank and pull it off the evap valve. Button it back up and go for a couple rides and see how it runs.
 
Jimnich

Jimnich

Getting there...
Location
Herefordshire UK
Eatmore Mudd said:
You could do a field test. Drop the skid plate to acess the evap sysytem, find the hose that goes to the intake pull it off the valve and plug it with a golf tee. Find the vent hose that goes to the tank and pull it off the evap valve. Button it back up and go for a couple rides and see how it runs.
Click to expand...
I had the same thought. Also maybe I overfilled the tank? So I pulled the system. Cannister seems dry and clear. Maybe the valve is stuck?
 
Jimnich

Jimnich

Getting there...
Location
Herefordshire UK
40 miles run with evap disconnected.
No cutting out.
No tank pressurising.
Smoother idle and running.
No hanging revs at idle.
Conclusion. Faulty valve or cannister?
I will run it like this for a while and maybe try with evap later for comparison!
Also
 
Last edited:
C

cwadej

Well travelled
Location
San Diego
those are not part of the evap system. those are air induction. pushes fresh air into the exhaust system to help completely burn any remnants of fuel. the systems causes popping in lower gears when decelerating. I ordered the same kit a week ago. seems that company is quite slow to ship as their page shows only that it was billed. just have to wait the for it to get here

different systems.
 
M

Murugaaa

Total noob
Location
Coimbatore
Jimnich said:
40 miles run with evap disconnected.
No cutting out.
No tank pressurising.
Smoother idle and running.
No hanging revs at idle.
Conclusion. Faulty valve or cannister?
I will run it like this for a while and maybe try with evap later for comparison!
Also
Click to expand...
So its good now...?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top Bottom