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Lowering Kit

Tala

Getting there...
Location
Australia
I'm getting ready to lower the Scram, but would like to know the torque values for tightening back up. Does anyone have any idea, or know where I can get hold of a service manual? Thanks.
 

Roy Gavin

Well travelled
Values will be the same as the Hima.
There are also standard torque values for most sizes of bolts which are easy to find, and have been posted on here a few times.
Just remember they are for clean/dry bolts, so sometimes easier to oil them and knock of around 25%, than work out if yours are clean / dry enough.
If you intend using a thread locker you need them clean dry anyway, Loctite brand has been formulated so that you don't have to adjust the torque, don't know about the others.
Some values in early Hima books were wrong, 10 nm instead of 50 on the engine cradle, etc, so always worth having a check against the standard tables!
 

Roy Gavin

Well travelled
If you don't have a Hima book RE use 5,10, 25, 50 and 70 nm for 5, 6, 8, 10 and 12 mm bolts respectively.
Most suspension bolts are 10mm so 50 nm.
Based on bolt diameter, not nut size!
 

Roy Gavin

Well travelled
Just worked out why the engine cradle bolt torque was wrong in the early manual - the 10mm bolts have a reduced head which takes a 10mm spanner , same as a 6 mm bolt- and the guy who did the manual looked at the wrong end and gave it the torque for a 6mm bolt
So looks as if the torque values were not the result of any specific engineering calculation, someone was just given values to ascribe to all the bolts the same size, and they looked at the wrong end of this one!
 

Ike208

Well travelled
Location
Boise, ID, USA
Post pics! I'm virtually positive that lowering mine isn't what I'd want, but it'd be awesome to see before/after pics just to see the results.
 

Tala

Getting there...
Location
Australia
We did the job before you posted, apart from fitting the spacers to the shock. Trying to figure out how to do that now. I forgot to take pics of the process though, sorry. I think hardest part of the process was stabilizing the bike without the center stand. Figured out how to do it with a jack, a plank of wood and a couple of bricks! ;)
 
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Ike208

Well travelled
Location
Boise, ID, USA
All good, mostly I'm just interested in the before/after, I get that you can't go back and do a "before" but if you'd post one of the finished results it'd be interesting to see the difference.
 

pcava

Getting there...
Location
Bangalore, India
Thanks for sharing the pics. Could you please share from where you have acquired the links? Also, did you observe any changes to the riding dynamics? Do you think one needs to lower the front forks too, after this change?
 

Tala

Getting there...
Location
Australia

DirtFlier

Getting there...
Location
Ohio
I'd be curious to know if rear ride compliance got noticeably stiffer after installing the lowering links. I added links to my NC700XD to drop the seat height and a much stiffer ride was my first impression about 1/4 mile from home after the swap.
 

Roy Gavin

Well travelled
I'd be curious to know if rear ride compliance got noticeably stiffer after installing the lowering links. I added links to my NC700XD to drop the seat height and a much stiffer ride was my first impression about 1/4 mile from home after the swap.
I'd be curious to know if rear ride compliance got noticeably stiffer after installing the lowering links. I added links to my NC700XD to drop the seat height and a much stiffer ride was my first impression about 1/4 mile from home after the swap.
Yep, wondered about that too, you are now working in a different part of the progressive linkage and in theory suspension should be stiffer, but wondered if it was noticeable.
 
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