New Himalayan FAQ Thread

wachuko

Well travelled
Thanks a lot Mike! Here in Greece the first 2023 models have been received and as I was informed, they don't have in their standard equipment the GPS tripper.
Here is the USA the 2023 do not have it either. On the showroom floor, when I went to buy mine, there was 2 - 2022 bikes and 1 - 2023... I went with the 2022 simply because it had the tripper. Might not use it as I plan to install my old GPS (Garmin Zumo 550), but since either one was the same price, why not...

I was not aware that there was an updated fuel injection for the 2023s...
 

tom_d

Well travelled
Location
US
This FAQ document is excellent and puts together so much information which would be hard to find otherwise, thank you.
I do think there is a section that can be improved, section 4 with information regarding battery drain, its cause, and fixes. That section states;

"The major problem with the Himalayan electrical system is not the battery, but the Regulator/Rectifier unit. Most pre-2022 Himmies have a constant battery drain (even with the ignition off) of between 50 and 150mA due to bad diodes in the rectifier."

and later:
"RE is not going to fix this problem any time soon due to a related lawsuit."

I think some people have concluded that the diodes are leaky in reverse bias thus faulty and that is the cause of the drain. I'll post a from Partzilla below which explains why the diode test cannot be universally applied and can give results which look like leaky diodes. The Yamaha unit being tested at 5:15 is an example with results that might be interpreted as a faulty R/R with leaky diodes as well as the Polaris unit tested next.

It might be most accurate to say the drain issue affects models with Euro4 specifications. It wasn't present in the carbureted models as far as I know. To reference that RE will not be fixing the issue due to a lawsuit, it is actually fixed in Euro5 models though that model's introduction is spread from early/mid 2021 and at least late 2022 depending on market.

A battery drain of 50-150 mA is an order of magnitude greater than what others who have documented this issue typically have reported. Those are amounts which will fully drain a 8 Ah battery in 2.2 to 6.6 days. An amount of 5-15 mA would be very close to what I measured and within the range documented by others. I measured mine yesterday at 6.25 mA - 12.96 mA depending on which gear I was in. I also installed the add-on fix yesterday and now see a 1.48 mA drain which would take a 225days to fully consume 8 Ah if that were possible with a lead-acid battery.

Basically, since the drain issue so many experience is demonstrably a result of the R/R circuit powered connection on the gear position sensor and has easily obtainable fixes, it might be more accurate to remove the R/R reference and mention it being related to the GPS on Euro4 machines due to its connection to an always on battery circuit. A fix is available from R/E dealers (at least in Europe as reported), from Hitchcock's, and can be DIY'd.

Again, this is a great collection of useful knowledge, thanks for curating it. -tom

Pre-fix
Pre-Fix_Neutral.jpgPre-Fix_Fifth.jpg

Fixed
Hitchcocks_drain_addon.jpgFixed_Neutral.jpg

Partzilla, "How to Test a Regulator Rectifier - They're Not all the Same! | 3 Phase Rectifier Test"
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NTjumDgixkQ&t=315s
 

Jbellarmada

Finally made it
Location
USA
After a lot of frustration, I created a pdf of the most relevant posts from the Himalayn FAQ thread. I post it here in the hope that people will find it useful. Please feel free to use this in any way you see fit.

I am certainly open to adding and amending to this file. Simply post here or PM me and I will add to this file if it is relevant to the greater Himalayan community. The administration has agreed to keep this as a sticky so it can't get buried in irrelevant nonsense.

OldGuy

RE_FAQ_V2 : 7/31/2022 I've updated the FAQ paper with information on two things: (1) Fuel pump relay & 'safety' switch problems and (2) TPS adjustment issues. Seems like these two issues are fairly widespread and to the unsuspecting, a total f**ing mystery.

Note #2: Having just gone through this, the EBC part numbers in the pdf are correct for sintered metallic pads. If you go by the parts finders on Amazon and eBay, they don't show as being compatible with the Himalayan. EBC says they are, so I'd go with that.

RE_FAQ_V3 : 1/2/2023 Added a very helpful document from forum member Flicka showing torque sequencing and specs for almost all of the Himalayan fasteners. This is not my work, I simply attached the existing document to my pdf.

RE_FAQ_V4: 2/23/2023 Added sprocket ratio charts for ratios above and below stock. Also added part numbers for SBS ceramic brake pads (I highly recommend them!).
Very nice!!!! Might consider adding comment on the use of Lithium grease on the relays. At least on 22 and 23 models. Some talk of it here with pictures. https://www.royalenfieldowners.com/index.php?threads/white-lithium-grease-on-relays.4878/unread&new=1

Also, regarding the code reading. Model 2022 has the wire coming off the ECU bundle as noted in the video. We cannot find one on the 2023. Almost looks like you have to use an ODB tool?

Have seen some posts on the relays and people trying to understand which one is which. Wireing diagram links might be nice and an image labeled with what each ECU is. Only 2 on <2022 from what I can tell and 5 on Euro 5 2023+ bikes.
 

OldGuy

Well travelled
Location
Seattle,WA
I am not associated with RE in any way, so having information on all the latest changes, problems and MY information is just not possible. You also have to realize that RE doesn't provide much information to the public, so if you can't find it, then neither can I. If you do find something, like decent wiring diagrams, then by all means post it in this thread, and I'll try to include it in the document. But really, there have been so many changes over the years that it would be a monstrous task to include it all.

TBH, the FAQ idea wasn't intended to provided documentation for everything and everyone. It was to capture some of the most important information available here on the forum and pull it together in one place.
OG
 

OldGuy

Well travelled
Location
Seattle,WA
This FAQ document is excellent and puts together so much information which would be hard to find otherwise, thank you.
I do think there is a section that can be improved, section 4 with information regarding battery drain, its cause, and fixes. That section states;

"The major problem with the Himalayan electrical system is not the battery, but the Regulator/Rectifier unit. Most pre-2022 Himmies have a constant battery drain (even with the ignition off) of between 50 and 150mA due to bad diodes in the rectifier."

and later:
"RE is not going to fix this problem any time soon due to a related lawsuit."

I think some people have concluded that the diodes are leaky in reverse bias thus faulty and that is the cause of the drain. I'll post a from Partzilla below which explains why the diode test cannot be universally applied and can give results which look like leaky diodes. The Yamaha unit being tested at 5:15 is an example with results that might be interpreted as a faulty R/R with leaky diodes as well as the Polaris unit tested next.

It might be most accurate to say the drain issue affects models with Euro4 specifications. It wasn't present in the carbureted models as far as I know. To reference that RE will not be fixing the issue due to a lawsuit, it is actually fixed in Euro5 models though that model's introduction is spread from early/mid 2021 and at least late 2022 depending on market.

A battery drain of 50-150 mA is an order of magnitude greater than what others who have documented this issue typically have reported. Those are amounts which will fully drain a 8 Ah battery in 2.2 to 6.6 days. An amount of 5-15 mA would be very close to what I measured and within the range documented by others. I measured mine yesterday at 6.25 mA - 12.96 mA depending on which gear I was in. I also installed the add-on fix yesterday and now see a 1.48 mA drain which would take a 225days to fully consume 8 Ah if that were possible with a lead-acid battery.

Basically, since the drain issue so many experience is demonstrably a result of the R/R circuit powered connection on the gear position sensor and has easily obtainable fixes, it might be more accurate to remove the R/R reference and mention it being related to the GPS on Euro4 machines due to its connection to an always on battery circuit. A fix is available from R/E dealers (at least in Europe as reported), from Hitchcock's, and can be DIY'd.

Again, this is a great collection of useful knowledge, thanks for curating it. -tom

Pre-fix
View attachment 10186View attachment 10187

Fixed
View attachment 10190View attachment 10188

Partzilla, "How to Test a Regulator Rectifier - They're Not all the Same! | 3 Phase Rectifier Test"
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NTjumDgixkQ&t=315s
Tom,
Sorry, but for some reason I missed your post when you put it up. Yes, I will rewrite that section. BUT - I did measure the drain I state in the FAQ regardless of how you test the R/R on it's own. I asked my dealer about it and their response was "we don't warranty dead batteries, you must have left the ignition on". And my statement about RE not doing anything due to the lawsuit was not in error, simply bad timing since they had fixed the issue by the time I wrote that. For those of us stuck with the model years where it was an issue, we got no help from RE or their dealers.

From the schematic associated with the 2020 US model (if one can say that), there is no other possible source of the drain other than the R/R. What is not in the schematic is the connection from the gear position sensor to battery positive - it's simply not shown. But as we eventually found out, it is there. On my 2020, it was hidden under a layer of poorly wrapped electrical tape like it was an afterthought, so my assumption is that somebody screwed up at the factory.

I replaced my R/R with a Shindegen and the drain dropped to the level most people measure due to the gear position sensor (7mA). I then rewired that to switched battery positive, and the drain dropped to zero. I was one of the lucky ones to have both issues.

At this point in time, the whole issue is probably moot. The owners of those bikes effected by either one or both issues probably have had them fixed and owners of newer (or older) models don't have to worry about it. But I will rewrite that section to reflect all possible causes and solutions.

OG
 

Ric

Well travelled
The problem is in the original spark plugs in their quality. They are often defective and depending on how defective they are, they produce certain symptoms. By fitting the iridium spark plug I solved 3 problems;
1 - occasional shutdowns,
2 - starting problems
3 - rough idling.
Furthermore, with the normal spark plug it was impossible to travel below 3000 rpm (the bike jumped like a camel), with the new spark plug I can travel in fifth gear even at 2000 rpm.
Most likely I would have achieved the same results with a good normal spark plug, but given the small price difference why not put something better also considering that an iridium lasts much longer. Mine is still like new at 25,000km.
I have this problem now with not being able to ride in 5th gear at 3000rpm, have to be in 3rd or 4th to stick to the 60km run in speed on a brand new bike, it just coughs and farts, in 5th!, so a new plug is on the cards..
 

OldGuy

Well travelled
Location
Seattle,WA
Ric,
Sorry you're having problems, but again, this thread was not supposed to be about individual issues. There are a lot of options out there for fixing specific problems, and the #1 priority right now is getting your ECU firmware updated. You don't say how new your bike is, but a lot people have reported that it makes a huge difference. So get that done and go from there.
 

Bluestrom13

Well travelled
Location
- GB -
Euro 4 and Euro 5 Differences.

Euro 5, and UK Type Approval
 

CajunRider

Finally made it
I've been having a time finding the correct info, so I just want to verify that what I found is correct.

Are these the correct number for valve lash on the Himalayan 411?

Tappet Setting:
Inlet: 0.8 - 0.10mm
Exhaust: 0.23 - 0.25mm
 
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