Scram 411 First Service

[Ren22]

I'm about to do the first service after break-in period on my Scram. I'm new to motorcycles and am looking for some basic information. I have this checklist for the service intervals but don't have the specifics of what I'm looking for and/or what/how to adjust the things I'm supposed to inspect/adjust. In various internet sluething I have found several videos showing the first service happening, but they are in a language I don't understand. So while they are fine for a general visual reference, I've not been able to gleam the details I'm seeking.

checklist - https://www.royalenfield.com/in/en/support/digital-quickstart/scram411/maintenancetips/

My primary questions:
1. what are the correct tappet adjustments for the scram 411? Is it the same as for the Himalayan?
I found several videos which address the adjustments for the Himalayan, here are just a couple. For those that have made this adjustment, have you found better reference videos?

2. For "tighten" - where can I find the correct torque settings?

*** Edit - found some answers ***

• Oil Type to use: SEMI SYNTHETIC SAE 15W 50
• Part number for the oil filter: Royal Enfield 888464
• Spark plug gap: 0.7 - 0.8mm
• Brake Fluid: Dot 4
• Drive Train Tension: Free play - 20 - 30mm
• Clutch lever free play: 2 - 3mm
• Rear brake pedal free play: 7 - 11mm
• Brake pads - look at the wear indicator
• Tappet adjustments: .08 - .10mm intake/.23 - .25 exhaust
• Tappet adjustment video:
• oil change step by step:

 

[Bluestrom13]

Welcome.

I don't believe that there is (yet) a manual out there for your Scram. or indeed, the Euro5 Himmi.
That second video you post (Wiltshire Man) does show the mechanical things, that are common to these bikes.
Here is a link to the Euro4 Himalayan. Useful for mechanical info on engine and frame. (Valve clearances, bolt torques).
Electrical stuff is another matter, and perhaps owners of later machines can chime in?
I read somewhere on here that you can download the wiring diagram by scanning in a bar code somewhere?

Link to Euro4 service Manual

Something to bear in mind....
Oil change fill amount is 1.6 to 1.7 Litres. Some editions of owners and service manuals erroneously say 2 Litres.

 

[Ike208]

Royal Enfield: We make our bikes to be worked on by the owners, that's what we're all about!
Also Royal Enfield: Service Manual? What's that?

YouTube is your friend, use it like Yoda used the Force. I found that if I googled "Royal Enfield Scram <insert whatever the actual text of the line item on the service list is>" I would find at least one video, usually a bunch, showing the work. I used the same tappet clearances as reported for the Himmy, the bike is running fine and hasn't exploded or seized yet so I'm taking that as a good sign. I think that for most stuff in the actual "meat and potatoes" of the engine they're identical between Scram and Himmy. I did notice that some of the emissions- and electrical-related stuff on my 2023 Scram doesn't match up with what I'm finding in videos for even the more recent Himmys so there's a bit more work for us there.

 

[nmroadrunner]

This guy has to wear a sidearm to service his bike?!? Wow, tough garage.

 

[Ren22]

Royal Enfield: We make our bikes to be worked on by the owners, that's what we're all about!
Also Royal Enfield: Service Manual? What's that?

YouTube is your friend, use it like Yoda used the Force. I found that if I googled "Royal Enfield Scram <insert whatever the actual text of the line item on the service list is>" I would find at least one video, usually a bunch, showing the work. I used the same tappet clearances as reported for the Himmy, the bike is running fine and hasn't exploded or seized yet so I'm taking that as a good sign. I think that for most stuff in the actual "meat and potatoes" of the engine they're identical between Scram and Himmy. I did notice that some of the emissions- and electrical-related stuff on my 2023 Scram doesn't match up with what I'm finding in videos for even the more recent Himmys so there's a bit more work for us there.

yeap, I've done a ton of youtube and internet searching, mainly Himmy stuff comes up when searching specifically for Scram 411, hence the questions I posted.

 

[Ren22]

Welcome.

I don't believe that there is (yet) a manual out there for your Scram. or indeed, the Euro5 Himmi.
That second video you post (Wiltshire Man) does show the mechanical things, that are common to these bikes.
Here is a link to the Euro4 Himalayan. Useful for mechanical info on engine and frame. (Valve clearances, bolt torques).
Electrical stuff is another matter, and perhaps owners of later machines can chime in?
I read somewhere on here that you can download the wiring diagram by scanning in a bar code somewhere?

Link to Euro4 service Manual

Something to bear in mind....
Oil change fill amount is 1.6 to 1.7 Litres. Some editions of owners and service manuals erroneously say 2 Litres.

Thanks for the link to the Service Manual.

 

[johnny42]

If it's the same engine as the Himalayan, use the Himalayan info.

 

[2LZ]

Hit my 300 miles today and the little wrench popped on. Bike's on the rack. 300 mile service tomorrow after chilling overnight. Looking forward to it!

 

[Overdrive]

Personally I’d set the valve clearances to 0.10 inlet, 0.25 exhaust (mm) as imho they’re better a little loose than too tight. Both the above figures are at the top of RE’s tolerance.
Don’t turn the engine backwards when finding TDC before setting the clearances. When looking at the left hand side of the bike the engine should only be turned anti clockwise, (in the direction of normal rotation) and NOT clockwise.
Set chain slack to 40mm. - 20 to 30mm is too tight, as the chain tries to stretch itself on full suspension compression, which is not good for it or the associated bearings.
Don’t overthink the service. The scram, and all other iterations of the Himalayan are the same as each other for most service purposes.
Good luck with the it. You’ll probably do a better job, with more care, than most m/c shops.

 

[McQueen216]

I would agree that youtube is still pretty fantastic.

 

[2LZ]

I would agree that youtube is still pretty fantastic.

I would agree that youtube is still pretty fantastic.

Yep, I'm You Tube Certified in many areas.
This is going to be fun. If it's as simple as the 300 mile service on my Interceptor, I should be enjoying myself for the day. Lots of mods coming on the Big Brown Truck also, so it will be down for a few days until all the schmise arrives. I'll post pics in another thread when the time comes. Pics are always fun.....

 

[2LZ]

Piece-o-cake. The valves were tight, as expected. Set them at a snug-ish .10mm and .25mm.
Everything else went according to plan. New oil, filter, checked the chain (which I previously set), new iridium plug, PoweRage exhaust showed up so that went on.
Other than that, went down the checklist in the manual. These bikes are amazingly easy to wrench on.....until I dropped the last gas tank bolt down past the battery....and now it's Miller Time. I'll get back to it...........
Oh! I also dug out some insulation scraps I had leftover from a Corvette project, and lined under the tank. I finished the rest of it off after this pic.

 

[2LZ]

I discovered something today. The dropped tank bolt ended up under the starter. Fine....but whatever they make them out of isn't magnetic! I had to use two long zip ties, to coerce it into position, so I could use my long, skinny needle nose to grab it. Just an FYI......

 

[2 Wheels]

Piece-o-cake. The valves were tight, as expected. Set them at a snug-ish .10mm and .25mm.
Everything else went according to plan. New oil, filter, checked the chain (which I previously set), new iridium plug, PoweRage exhaust showed up so that went on.
Other than that, went down the checklist in the manual. These bikes are amazingly easy to wrench on.....until I dropped the last gas tank bolt down past the battery....and now it's Miller Time. I'll get back to it...........
Oh! I also dug out some insulation scraps I had leftover from a Corvette project, and lined under the tank. I finished the rest of it off after this pic.

Piece-o-cake. The valves were tight, as expected. Set them at a snug-ish .10mm and .25mm.
Everything else went according to plan. New oil, filter, checked the chain (which I previously set), new iridium plug, PoweRage exhaust showed up so that went on.
Other than that, went down the checklist in the manual. These bikes are amazingly easy to wrench on.....until I dropped the last gas tank bolt down past the battery....and now it's Miller Time. I'll get back to it...........
Oh! I also dug out some insulation scraps I had leftover from a Corvette project, and lined under the tank. I finished the rest of it off after this pic.

Piece-o-cake. The valves were tight, as expected. Set them at a snug-ish .10mm and .25mm.
Everything else went according to plan. New oil, filter, checked the chain (which I previously set), new iridium plug, PoweRage exhaust showed up so that went on.
Other than that, went down the checklist in the manual. These bikes are amazingly easy to wrench on.....until I dropped the last gas tank bolt down past the battery....and now it's Miller Time. I'll get back to it...........
Oh! I also dug out some insulation scraps I had leftover from a Corvette project, and lined under the tank. I finished the rest of it off after this pic.

I discovered something today. The dropped tank bolt ended up under the starter. Fine....but whatever they make them out of isn't magnetic! I had to use two long zip ties, to coerce it into position, so I could use my long, skinny needle nose to grab it. Just an FYI......

F

I discovered something today. The dropped tank bolt ended up under the starter. Fine....but whatever they make them out of isn't magnetic! I had to use two long zip ties, to coerce it into position, so I could use my long, skinny needle nose to grab it. Just an FYI......

What is the purpose of the

Piece-o-cake. The valves were tight, as expected. Set them at a snug-ish .10mm and .25mm.
Everything else went according to plan. New oil, filter, checked the chain (which I previously set), new iridium plug, PoweRage exhaust showed up so that went on.
Other than that, went down the checklist in the manual. These bikes are amazingly easy to wrench on.....until I dropped the last gas tank bolt down past the battery....and now it's Miller Time. I'll get back to it...........
Oh! I also dug out some insulation scraps I had leftover from a Corvette project, and lined under the tank. I finished the rest of it off after this pic.

What is the purpose of the insulation under the tank?

 

[2LZ]

What is the purpose of the insulation under the tank?

All in an effort to find and hopefully lessen or eliminate that dang rattle noise. At first, I thought maybe the tank was echoing and accentuating the rattle. It helped a little.

 

[2 Wheels]

All in an effort to find and hopefully lessen or eliminate that dang rattle noise. At first, I thought maybe the tank was echoing and accentuating the rattle. It helped a little.

Ahhh ok. I will keep that in mind. Going to pick up my Scram from the dealer this week. Really looking forward to it. Had a test ride and came back smiling, so that was a good sign.

 

[2LZ]

Ahhh ok. I will keep that in mind. Going to pick up my Scram from the dealer this week. Really looking forward to it. Had a test ride and came back smiling, so that was a good sign.

I really love the bike. It's a total hoot on our canyon twisties here. Even the stock CEAT's grip very well. I'm dragging my shoes all the time. These bikes, set up wth the 17/19, can go WAY over. It just took me a while to get used to the "straight 6" style of power after my DRZ. Now I love it.

Post pics when you get it!!!