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Super Meteor 650 belt drive kit

Hoghead

Not a Total Newb
Super Meteor 650 belt drive kit is finished in two final drive ratios, and I am trying to get feedback on what gear ratios are preferred - stock or the 38T rear/16T front mod.
My thoughts on SM 650 gearing:

Gearing is a bit confusing with a larger number being "lower" geared – IE the SM 650 stock sprocket ratio at 2.6:1 is lower than the Interceptor stock ratio at 2.5:1
A lower gear ratio (2.6) will accelerate quicker, but top speed will be lower. At highway speeds the engine will be spinning at a higher speed, and depending how fast you are riding, you may not want to work the engine that hard for very long.

A higher gear ratio (2.5) will accelerate slower, but top speed will be higher, IF you have the HP to pull the higher gearing. Top speed on a SM is usually not a consideration, however some riders, myself included, would prefer lower engine speed on the highway. When higher geared, cruising speed rpm will be lower, and in the meat of the TQ band.
While not an engineering law by any means, and there are a lot of variables, (with notable exceptions like the new Ducati single); a rule of thumb for long engine life, is that you want to keep long term RPM under a piston speed of 2500 Ft/min – not to say that you cannot spin it up to redline – just do not hold it there while cruising if you intend to achieve long life.
2500 ft/min on a RE 650 = 5619 rpm

Noteworthy that the SM does not have a tach. Using the SM stock gearing, 120-140 kph calculates to 5170 - 6050 rpm, not accounting for the bike weight, your weight, rolling resistance, or drag from panniers and a windscreen - measured rpm will be higher than this calculated engine speed. 5170-6050 rpm is past the engine torque peak of 5150, and pushing the long term piston speed into the rule of thumb range for a shortened life span.

Carrol Shelby famously said “horsepower sells cars, and torque wins races”. RE Street riding is mainly in the engine torque band, I try to match gearing to my riding style. Having a cruising rpm in 6th in the meat of the torque band, and not flogging the engine, works best for me.
The Enfield 650 engine has modest torque and horsepower, so gearing becomes a compromise between acceptable performance, the ability to pull a higher gear, with ones tolerance for wringing its neck to keep up with motorway speeds in some countries.

Horses for courses depending on your riding style and location.
Which ratio do you prefer?

Pic of the RSTech Interceptor belt drive for attention, and I will post a SM pic when the pullies are back from anodizing/heat treating
 

Attachments

Senior Moment

Well travelled
This seems really interesting. Especially if combined with a big bore upgrade (though I gather those are not street legal). Kinda turn a middle-weight cruiser into low-heavyweight cruiser. Thanks for sharing.

P.S. Do you have an interest in the venture (other than a presumably free upgrade to your own bike for development and testing purposes)?
 

Senior Moment

Well travelled
Why would a big bore upgrade be illegal for street use?
Not sure. I just noted that on the S&S website there were all kinds of disclaimers about "for track use only", California laws, federal laws, etc. I haven't looked into it deeply however.

OTOH, other upgrades complementary to the belt drive would be free flow air filter and free flow exhaust. In fact, that would seem like a first good step before a big bore upgrade (assuming one were to go that route).
 

Alan F.

Well travelled
Understood, thank you. I agree on the complimentary mods and have added mufflers, air filter & ring and booster plug to my '20 Interceptor. It's a different bike now, more fun but still not a handful. My understanding is that big bore engines require a different clutch setup so no more slipper clutch, I'd really miss that.
 

Senior Moment

Well travelled
Understood, thank you. I agree on the complimentary mods and have added mufflers, air filter & ring and booster plug to my '20 Interceptor. It's a different bike now, more fun but still not a handful. My understanding is that big bore engines require a different clutch setup so no more slipper clutch, I'd really miss that.
I ordered my SM650 with the DNA air filter, so have no point of comparison on that. However, I have the stock pipes. I'm considering upgrading that next (perhaps/probably even before belt drive, assuming I go that route.

I have two concerns, though, that perhaps you and/or others could weigh in on:

1) It seems that many of these new exhaust upgrade involve de-catting, which I'm not crazy about. I realize that the catalytic converter is expensive and heavy. But it's also good for the planet. :) My understanding is that new header pipes are lighter than stock so all good. Though see #2. OTOH, from what I can tell, only S&S makes add-on muffler/silencer that has a catalytic converter in it. Not sure if that's correct, but it's my current understanding. In any case, seems like a mix and match of Hitchcock's header pipes and S&S muffler/silencer would be the way to go.

2) But it seems all of these items are in brushed stainless steel, which would seem to match nothing else on the bike. :confused: Not a huge deal, and maybe it actually looks good / complementary to the chrome. In any case, to my mind it's an issue to be considered and possibly addressed.

Overall, an exhaust upgrade seems to simultaneously reduce weight and improve power. Both good things, regardless of anything else that might be done.
 

Alan F.

Well travelled
Sounds like you're building quite a bike there!
I can't speak to the need for a catalytic converter but build your bike to your taste and enjoy.

Hoghead is the originator of these belt drives and has quite a bit of mileage on his at this point as good proof of concept. If I had no other projects I'd probably put one on my bike.
 

Senior Moment

Well travelled
Sounds like you're building quite a bike there!
I can't speak to the need for a catalytic converter but build your bike to your taste and enjoy.

Hoghead is the originator of these belt drives and has quite a bit of mileage on his at this point as good proof of concept. If I had no other projects I'd probably put one on my bike.
Well, at least I'm thinking about it. Whether / what I do remains to be determined. "Round 1", as it were, was primarily about safety. I think the DNA filter was the only exception and that seemed prudent in terms of long-term maintenance, as well as performance. "Round 2", if it materializes, will be about maximizing the touring potential of the bike. At the moment, this seems likely to include luggage and then perhaps this exhaust system and maybe the belt drive. And then done. (I think. Perhaps the big bore kit will insist on being "Round 3" :cool:. Can there possibly BE a "Round 4"???)

For me, part of the joy of this "hobby" is the puzzle solving.
 

Hoghead

Not a Total Newb
This seems really interesting. Especially if combined with a big bore upgrade (though I gather those are not street legal). Kinda turn a middle-weight cruiser into low-heavyweight cruiser. Thanks for sharing.

P.S. Do you have an interest in the venture (other than a presumably free upgrade to your own bike for development and testing purposes)?
That is my black Interceptor in the video, and I am the retired old guy pratting on. I designed the belt kit (and a few other bits) for my own bike, then for a few mates, and now making a few for other Riders. The Video maker, Teacher T Thailand, is simply another Rider who's mate has my belt kit on his Interceptor, and asked me to make one for his new SM . I loath paid endorsements, and being an old grumpy guy, have little faith in so called Influencers - there is nothing in this for Teacher T other than material for his video channel, and any benefit he may derive from that venture. I learned from the Interceptor belt exercise, and made a small run for the SM right off the bat.
 
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Hoghead

Not a Total Newb
Not sure. I just noted that on the S&S website there were all kinds of disclaimers about "for track use only", California laws, federal laws, etc. I haven't looked into it deeply however.
Seemingly a lot of aftermarket car and bike things you buy in the US has that CYA legal clause - California is the worst where everything you buy causes cancer and requires a warning.
 
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Hoghead

Not a Total Newb
Teacher T also did a preview of the belt drive on his Super Meteor.
This was taken at test fit stage and the 6061-T6 aluminium rear pulley will be Type 3 hard anodized in black for tooth wear. Before someone asks, no you cannot have it in billet aluminium..........The front high tensile steel pulley is heat treated for spline and tooth wear, then zinc plated for corrosion protection

 

Senior Moment

Well travelled
That is my black Interceptor in the video, and I am the retired old guy pratting on. I designed the belt kit (and a few other bits) for my own bike, then for a few mates, and now making a few for other Riders. The Video maker, Teacher T Thailand, is simply another Rider who's mate has my belt kit on his Interceptor, and asked me to make one for his new SM . I loath paid endorsements, and being an old grumpy guy, have little faith in so called Influencers - there is nothing in this for Teacher T other than material for his video channel, and any benefit he may derive from that venture. I learned from the Interceptor belt exercise, and made a small run for the SM right off the bat.
Thanks for the information ... and for making the belt kit. I appreciate both.
 

Senior Moment

Well travelled
This is really tempting. One question (for now at least ;-)):

My understanding is that modifying the actual or effective sprocket size (e.g. the 38T mod), throws off the odometer and speedometer because these are simply calculating mileage based on drive sprocket revolutions and that to restore odometer/speedometer accuracy, one needs a further mod: a "speedohealer" such as this:
SpeedoHealer v4 (SH) - HealTech Electronics Ltd. (healtech-electronics.com)

Is this true? If so, are there any other remedies besides the SpeedoHealer?

Thanks.
 

Hoghead

Not a Total Newb
Or, is the stock speedo inaccurate, and will the higher gearing correct it?
I have no idea how accurate a stock speedo is using stock tyres, but a simple hand held GPS should answer that. I suspect that the stock speedo will read low, and I am told that legislation in Australia at least, says that it is illegal for a speedo to read high .

All reports indicate that the 38T gearing will increase the speedo by 3 kph . If in fact the stock speedo reads low, this may well be a good thing

Not a problem with the front wheel, cable driven speedo on the Inter/Conti. It is not clear how the SM electric speedo picks up the speed signal, and RE have not seen fit to provide a service manual or electrical drawing that I can find. Presumably it comes from the ECU, but where is the sensor? I do not see a transmission output sensor and the only sensor on the wheels is the Hall Effect sensor for the ABS.
Before I fiddle with some interface box, I would want to know what signal I am dealing with.

Same problem in changing to a taller tyre.

I would not worry myself over the speedo and if a GPS proves it inaccurate, then I will register that offset in my mind, just like I have been doing for the past 5 decades.
 

Hoghead

Not a Total Newb
It is not clear how the SM electric speedo picks up the speed signal, and RE have not seen fit to provide a service manual or electrical drawing that I can find. Presumably it comes from the ECU, but where is the sensor? I do not see a transmission output sensor and the only sensor on the wheels is the Hall Effect sensor for the ABS.
Before I fiddle with some interface box, I would want to know what signal I am dealing with.
I ran a SM yesterday on the centre stand while testing belt drive alignment, and no speedo reading.
As suspected is driven off the front wheel, and I suspect that the ABS sensor is doing double duty
 

Megadan

Well travelled
Location
Omaha, NE
Installed a RSTech Super Meteor belt drive kit yesterday on a brand new bike with 14 Dealer KM - After my post belt installation test drive the video shows 19 km
Brand spanking new!
This is absolutely my first big mod that I want to do. I am going to ride the original chain and sprokets for now though, but having come from multiple shaft drive bikes I have been spoiled with not having to mess with chains.

Beautiful bike by the way!
 
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