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Super meteor 650 drive chain spec?

sean dragonfly

Total noob
Location
leeds uk
Hi All

I’m needing to replace my drive chain after only 2500 miles, can anyone let me know what size/spec I’m looking for please? I know I’m wanting an ORing or Xring but not sure what size etc?…
Thank you
 

Sliphorn

Well travelled
Location
Missouri
Hi All

I’m needing to replace my drive chain after only 2500 miles, can anyone let me know what size/spec I’m looking for please? I know I’m wanting an ORing or Xring but not sure what size etc?…
Thank you
..
I can’t help you with the specs but is the chain shot after 2500 miles? Your dealer should be able to help.
..
 

StefArmstg

Well travelled
Location
Colorado
It should be a 525, same as the Interceptor. For length, mark a side plate, and count them. The length is the number pins (double the number of side plates).

A DID VO is a inexpensive, quality o-ring chain. A big improvement over stock. And comes with a master link. No need to remove the swing arm, if you grind off a couple pins on the old one.

No need to spend more unless you're also going to upgrade the sprockets.

My experience with the Indian made chains is they're junk. A replacement for my old Bullet had a frozen side plate right out of the box. The chain on my Interceptor kinked up with no visible wear on the sprockets. It was lubed regularly and never run in the rain or dirt.

At that mileage, it should be under warranty. But chains are a wear item. The dealer wouldn't even attempt to warranty the weak battery that came in my Interceptor.
 
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Bluestrom13

Well travelled
Location
...GB...
Thanks to those clarifying the chain size/link#. This bike seems heavy for a 520 chain.
Depends on what specification 520 chain - Not all are equal.
Side plate thickness and pin diameters vary, so affecting tensile strength, and chain weight.
525 sprockets should last longer than 520s though, being wider, given equal loading.
RK CHAIN SPECIFICATIONS.jpeg

(Chart is from RK. Other brands will show similar results).

(Edited = typo + better jpeg)
 
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Sliphorn

Well travelled
Location
Missouri
The OEM chain is not very high quality and early replacement seems the norm.
A belt drive has a lower long term cost, quiet, no oily mess or adjustment and far smoother
.
https://www.royalenfieldbeltdrive.com/product-page/super-meteor-shotgun-650-belt-drive-kits
.
What type of power loss is there with your belt as compared to a quality chain? Chain maintenance is not difficult and takes me all of 3-5 minutes. Any chain I’ve ever had has lasted between 8 and 12 thousand miles depending on the application. I consider that very reasonable. Of course I have to replace the sprockets too, but…… There has to be some downside to a belt because absolutely nothing is perfect. TANSTAAFL. There Ain’t No Such Thing As A Free Lunch.
.
 

iowa al

Well travelled
Location
Iowa
.
What type of power loss is there with your belt as compared to a quality chain? Chain maintenance is not difficult and takes me all of 3-5 minutes. Any chain I’ve ever had has lasted between 8 and 12 thousand miles depending on the application. I consider that very reasonable. Of course I have to replace the sprockets too, but…… There has to be some downside to a belt because absolutely nothing is perfect. TANSTAAFL. There Ain’t No Such Thing As A Free Lunch.
.
I can buy 3 sets of chains and sprockets from Hitchcocks for the price of the belt drive. and I can fix a chain at the side of the road. I'll trade the bike off long before I use up 3 sets. And I won't have any power loss. The bike was designed for chain drive. Chain maintenance just isn't that hard. If people want belt drive, to each their own.
 

Hoghead

Not a Total Newb
.
What type of power loss is there with your belt as compared to a quality chain? Chain maintenance is not difficult and takes me all of 3-5 minutes. Any chain I’ve ever had has lasted between 8 and 12 thousand miles depending on the application. I consider that very reasonable. Of course I have to replace the sprockets too, but…… There has to be some downside to a belt because absolutely nothing is perfect. TANSTAAFL. There Ain’t No Such Thing As A Free Lunch.
.
The statement that a belt is not as efficient as a chain is not true with these Generation 4, curvilinear tooth belts.

From the Gates Engineering manual:“PolyChain® GT® Carbon® belt drive efficiency will be as high as 98%. This high efficiency is primarily due to the positive, no slip characteristic of synchronous belts. Since the belt has a thin profile, it flexes easily, thus resulting thus resulting in low hysteresis losses as evidenced by low heat buildup in the belt." and "Chain drives running unlubricated may generate significant heat buildup due to increased friction in the roller joints. Even properly lubricated chains running at higher speeds tend to throw off the oil due to centrifugal forces, making it difficult to maintain proper lubrication at the load bearing. “Consequently, chain drives are typically only 92-98% efficient."


While there is lots of Gates marketing fluff out there, the Gates manual I referred to is an engineering design manual rather than propaganda. The "elsewhere" references I can find are either Youtubers with questionable engineering credentials, comparison with bicycles, or general statements about belts or V-belts, and not specifically about these Gen 4 belts. Here is an unbiased US Dept. of Energy report giving that 98% efficiency, and comparing to V-belts https://www.energy.gov/sites/prod/files/2014/04/f15/replace_vbelts_motor_systemts5.pdf


And a technical paper of chain VS belt with the same 98% result: https://core.ac.uk/download/pdf/55693235.pdf
 

Hoghead

Not a Total Newb
I can buy 3 sets of chains and sprockets from Hitchcocks for the price of the belt drive. and I can fix a chain at the side of the road. I'll trade the bike off long before I use up 3 sets. And I won't have any power loss. The bike was designed for chain drive. Chain maintenance just isn't that hard. If people want belt drive, to each their own.
Assuming that labour and shipping is free - if you have to pay to have the chain and sprockets changed, pay shipping, or use high quality chain and sprocket sets, the math is very different. Then the downtime and hassle of taking the bike to the shop or doing it yourself, oily mess, and adjustment - some people simply do not want to deal with Zen and the Art of Chain Maintenance. As you say, each to their own, and if you are happy with a chain enjoy.
 
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Hoghead

Not a Total Newb
Assuming that labour and shipping is free - if you have to pay to have the chain and sprockets changed, pay shipping, or use high quality chain and sprocket sets, the math is very different. Then the downtime and hassle of taking the bike to the shop or doing it yourself, oily mess, and adjustment - some people simply do not want to deal with Zen and the Art of Chain Maintenance. As you say, each to their own, and if you are happy with a chain enjoy.
 

Hoghead

Not a Total Newb
.
What type of power loss is there with your belt as compared to a quality chain? Chain maintenance is not difficult and takes me all of 3-5 minutes. Any chain I’ve ever had has lasted between 8 and 12 thousand miles depending on the application. I consider that very reasonable. Of course I have to replace the sprockets too, but…… There has to be some downside to a belt because absolutely nothing is perfect. TANSTAAFL. There Ain’t No Such Thing As A Free Lunch.
.
I am not the only one to have put 100,000 miles on a belt drive - if long term cost is the criteria, I consider that a lot more reasonable. Yes the initial cost is higher than a chain set.
Efficiency is is the neighbourhood of 98%, or the same range as a new, properly oiled and adjusted chain
 

michaelh

Finally made it
Well, being an mechanicaI engineer I love this very nice piece of engineering and subsequent production. Summerizing the pro & cons, they seem to me more or less in balance. I would install it, simlpy because of the technical solution itself (for German regulations I would have to construct and fabric an upper "chain guard" too), if there would be another price tag, frankly spoken, despite the fact that theoratically out in the woods on tour a chain driven bike is always somehow easier to handle in case of a chaintrain damage. But again, I like this piece of work a lot, it's brilliant! I really can understand that one wants to jump on it.
 

iowa al

Well travelled
Location
Iowa
It does look like a nice piece. I think a lot of people will make the change. For me personally, I can't justify the expense of it.
 

Hoghead

Not a Total Newb
Well, being an mechanicaI engineer I love this very nice piece of engineering and subsequent production. Summerizing the pro & cons, they seem to me more or less in balance. I would install it, simlpy because of the technical solution itself (for German regulations I would have to construct and fabric an upper "chain guard" too), if there would be another price tag, frankly spoken, despite the fact that theoratically out in the woods on tour a chain driven bike is always somehow easier to handle in case of a chaintrain damage. But again, I like this piece of work a lot, it's brilliant! I really can understand that one wants to jump on it.
There are different schools of thought on a chain guard - is it a mandated safety issue applied to all belts/chains, a practical means of keeping the chain from flinging oil all over you and the bike, a traditional motorcycle feature (ignoring the fact that the first bikes had an open belt drive) or a stone guard? A typical motorcycle guard is L shaped, and being on the top does nothing to keep out stones. Some OEMs use a bottom guard in an attempt to keep out stones, but being L shaped does nothing to keep stones from entering the back side, and could be seen as a stone trap, rather than a guard. Unless the guard is fully enclosed (impossible with an endless belt unless a 2 piece guard) a rock can get trapped in the guard, increasing any potential risk - The OEM’s largely gave up on an enclosed guard, presumably for maintenance and esthetic reasons.

So does a traditional guard(s) keep out rocks, or is it a mandated safety regulation to keep out fingers and bits of clothing?

I am not the only one who prefers no guard, however if you want a guard, or MOT tells you that you need one at least once a year, then nothing is stopping you from making one – given demand, I could offer them as an option in the kit, and may well do so
 
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