What have you done to your Himalayan today (or yesterday, or this week ...)
- Thread starter Aushiker
- Start date
Caspice
Well travelled
- Location
- Here and There
I am in the USA. Appreciate the UK MOT link. The State where I reside has annual vehicle inspections. Comparing the UK MOT to those of my State is interesting.Looks like your guy is correct. Having a pillion seat makes it not a "single seat motorcycle" and then viable for the major failing "missing footpegs"
Now, where did I put the things?
MOT inspection manual: motorcycles - 6. Structure and attachments - Guidance - GOV.UK
Frame and attachments (including exhaust system and fuel system), and seat and riding controls (including clutch and throttle controls and footrests) rules and inspection for motorcycle MOT tests.www.gov.uk
According to the PA inspection regulations for motorcycles
https://www.dot.state.pa.us/Public/DVSPubsForms/BMV/BMV Manuals/Pub_45 Inspections Regulations/Subchapterh.pdf
(4) Inspect the vehicle frame and REJECT IF any of the following apply:
(vi) A hand-hold device is not provided if the motorcycle is designed to carry more than one person.
(vii) Footrests are not provided for each person operating or riding upon vehicle
Yet there is no mention of a passenger seat
175.155. Chassis (a) Condition of Chassis -
(c) Seats - A motorcycle shall be equipped with a seat for the operator which is firmly anchored to the frame or support. No metal spring shall protrude from the driver’s seat.
Curious how the inspectors view the term "designed". Good question to ask during next years inspection.
I've never found that volunteering information or asking questions has behooved me when it comes to inspectors, insurance adjusters, appraisers, etc.
- Location
- Northern California
The weekend before last, I was putting around in the hills when I heard a plasticky "crack" from the front of my bike. I thought I hit a really damn big bug or something, but then I noticed that my speedometer didn't work. When I got home I checked the connections, but everything looked fine. Did some research into how the speedometer worked and then removed the front wheel to inspect the drive unit. Couldn't find anything obvious, so I searched on YT for Himalayan speedometers and found a video. After watching it, I figured that the drive inside the sensor head was missing. Ordered a "Wheel Speed Sensor Assembly" on eBay for $24 US shipped.
It arrived yesterday and I put it on today. Sure enough, the new one had something inside it that engaged pawls on the LHS wheel hub. As per what I saw in the YT video I watched, I simply removed the cable from both hub drives and swapped out the head unit.
...
Success! Speedo works, although it reads about 5MPH low at 70MPH. Not sure if swapping the cable itself would fix that. My odometer is missing about 600 miles as well, thanks to 10 days without a speedometer
It arrived yesterday and I put it on today. Sure enough, the new one had something inside it that engaged pawls on the LHS wheel hub. As per what I saw in the YT video I watched, I simply removed the cable from both hub drives and swapped out the head unit.
...Success! Speedo works, although it reads about 5MPH low at 70MPH. Not sure if swapping the cable itself would fix that. My odometer is missing about 600 miles as well, thanks to 10 days without a speedometer
carrot1151
Getting there...
- Location
- UK
View attachment 12972
Halfway through fitting a set of led spotlights. I also just realised the engine bars I fitted are not even but that seems to be to get round the cat
Halfway through fitting a set of led spotlights. I also just realised the engine bars I fitted are not even but that seems to be to get round the cat
2LZ
Well travelled
- Location
- Volcano, CA
Indeed. The more info they have, the more discrepancies they can find. Especially if you are lucky and get the overzealous government employee.I've never found that volunteering information or asking questions has behooved me when it comes to inspectors, insurance adjusters, appraisers, etc.
MotoDoug
Getting there...
- Location
- Southern California
Today I started clearing out extra parts and put an ad in the Swap Meet forum for a 9” Delkevic exhaust. Check it out! 
nmroadrunner
Well travelled
- Location
- New Mexico, USA
- Location
- Northern California
Hey @nmroadrunner , love ya buddy, but give us some context here You're leaving some folks hanging!
That looks like a remote drain for the pickup filter section, did you have to drill and o-ring the plate? Tell us more!
Forgive me if I missed any post of yours where you were leading up to this. Long been a fan of remote drains, one of my bikes requires one for service.
You're leaving some folks hanging!That looks like a remote drain for the pickup filter section, did you have to drill and o-ring the plate? Tell us more!
Forgive me if I missed any post of yours where you were leading up to this. Long been a fan of remote drains, one of my bikes requires one for service.
- Location
- Northern California
Addendum to above, I could not edit: I was looking at it wrong lol. I see now @nmroadrunner replaced the drain plug with a extender.
nmroadrunner
Well travelled
- Location
- New Mexico, USA
MotoDoug
Getting there...
- Location
- Southern California
This is more of a ‘What I didn’t do’ post.
I intended to relocate the crank case breather hose from the bottom hole of the airbox to the top of it where I had removed the AIS hose (as has been mentioned in other posts to keep water out of crankcase). I was curious what the filter was looking like and wanted to examine the inside of the airbox before moving the hose. This is when I made the discovery! The lower airbox hose actually goes into the bottom of a sealed galley that goes upward to approximately the top of the air filter, putting it in very close proximity to the height of the AIS hose port. I’m not sure if the galley has any filter or wire mesh in it like my old cars had on the breather hoses. Water intrusion should not be a problem and a gooey film of oil will not enter the airbox at the AIS port.
I got a rather awkward photo of the galley by sticking my camera in the airbox. You can see the sealant that forms the galley. The breather hose nipple being at the bottom left of the photo and the actual hole into the airbox up higher. The photo is somewhat rotate but you get the idea. Saved myself some scraped knuckles and frustration!
(PS: is there an edit function for posts? I don’t seem to be able to edit something once it gets posted)
I intended to relocate the crank case breather hose from the bottom hole of the airbox to the top of it where I had removed the AIS hose (as has been mentioned in other posts to keep water out of crankcase). I was curious what the filter was looking like and wanted to examine the inside of the airbox before moving the hose. This is when I made the discovery! The lower airbox hose actually goes into the bottom of a sealed galley that goes upward to approximately the top of the air filter, putting it in very close proximity to the height of the AIS hose port. I’m not sure if the galley has any filter or wire mesh in it like my old cars had on the breather hoses. Water intrusion should not be a problem and a gooey film of oil will not enter the airbox at the AIS port.
I got a rather awkward photo of the galley by sticking my camera in the airbox. You can see the sealant that forms the galley. The breather hose nipple being at the bottom left of the photo and the actual hole into the airbox up higher. The photo is somewhat rotate but you get the idea. Saved myself some scraped knuckles and frustration!
(PS: is there an edit function for posts? I don’t seem to be able to edit something once it gets posted)
Was the speedo always 5 mph low (at 70 mph)? Or did that just happen with the new drive?The weekend before last, I was putting around in the hills when I heard a plasticky "crack" from the front of my bike. I thought I hit a really damn big bug or something, but then I noticed that my speedometer didn't work. When I got home I checked the connections, but everything looked fine. Did some research into how the speedometer worked and then removed the front wheel to inspect the drive unit. Couldn't find anything obvious, so I searched on YT for Himalayan speedometers and found a video. After watching it, I figured that the drive inside the sensor head was missing. Ordered a "Wheel Speed Sensor Assembly" on eBay for $24 US shipped.
It arrived yesterday and I put it on today. Sure enough, the new one had something inside it that engaged pawls on the LHS wheel hub. As per what I saw in the YT video I watched, I simply removed the cable from both hub drives and swapped out the head unit.
View attachment 12959...View attachment 12960
Success! Speedo works, although it reads about 5MPH low at 70MPH. Not sure if swapping the cable itself would fix that. My odometer is missing about 600 miles as well, thanks to 10 days without a speedometer
RotorWrench
Well travelled
- Location
- USA
Hello all. Been AWOL quite a while (last September or October?) due to a family issue but have recently been able to get back to my Himalayan and have done a few more mods which I'll get some photos of and share.
I've really enjoyed catching up on some very interesting, imaginative and cool work being shared here on these versatile bikes as well as seeing so many new owners.
I need to get in more riding now though before the snow flies!
I've really enjoyed catching up on some very interesting, imaginative and cool work being shared here on these versatile bikes as well as seeing so many new owners.
I need to get in more riding now though before the snow flies!
- Location
- Northern California
When bike was on the factory CEATs, speedo read ~10% low as expected. Shinko E705 and current Dunlop Trailmax Mission read 2-4% high from what I've seen. They were accurate as far as I was concerned, and this new head gives me a reading that grows more inaccurate the faster I go lol. At 85MPH GPS actual my speedo reads just under 75MPH. At first I was thinking maybe this new speedo head was sposed to be for a Scram, but, to make it all more confusing, the mileage traveled is perfectly accurate. I have tested this considerably the last week, because I also had logged the miles I traveled when my speedometer/odometer didn't work. Just a reminder: I currently ride 65-75 miles a day on my Himalayan, rain or shine just for work commute.
Stalepost update: It's like my speedometer needle itself is off now. I have gleaned the OBD2 readings and it confirms it. My speedometer display is inaccurate, odometer is accurate, OBD2 speed is accurate. I mean, it's really not a big deal to me - Cali cops can be phallus-shaped individuals in attitude and one is not likely to get a speeding ticket on a Himalayan unless they are in a residential neighborhood and being a phallus-shaped individual. I'm only a dick when not on a motorcycle.
It's just not often a speedo reads so low lol. It's almost like those Chinese "sportbikes" that have a 13k RPM tach because their 6500RPM-redline Loncin reads double. Yeah that's a thing now.
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RotorWrench
Well travelled
- Location
- USA
I just installed mine last week. Primarily I went with the 14" for more clearance for my panniers and bags, so I could lower them. Took about 20mins to install. I do like the sound better. If you like loud, the baffle removes in literally minutes.
I would have gone shorter but the shorter Delkevics and slip-on like the Baak don't offer spark arresters for them, which is a must for my riding.
I like the carbon fiber and the weight being less than a third of the OEM but I wonder about the durability of the carbon fiber over the stainless steel. I'm thinking I should have gone with that instead.
I would have gone shorter but the shorter Delkevics and slip-on like the Baak don't offer spark arresters for them, which is a must for my riding.
I like the carbon fiber and the weight being less than a third of the OEM but I wonder about the durability of the carbon fiber over the stainless steel. I'm thinking I should have gone with that instead.
Wow Lazerman.. how confusing! I reckon, just keep the front wheel on the ground, and you should be fine