What issues have you had at 5K

tom_d

Well travelled
Location
US
This one for a Honda beat looks physically identical, there was a question about whether it has a check valve to prevent fuel leakage when removing the tank.

 

Dartymoor

Well travelled
Location
Devon, UK
WARNING! LONG POST WITH PERSONAL OPINIONS!
Nice read, thanks - I do enjoy and value others experiences. And I certainly embrace light travel when being local and in a place where recovery back to home is probable. (I maintain my own bikes)

But travelling abroad, especially in an area where your bike is unusual or where support is limited - I would carry some spares. Things like throttle and clutch cables, a spare clutch, oil filter - the stuff that's hard to get in that country. I mean, be sensible - taking that stuff to India for a himmie would be daft!

One real world example that sticks in my mind is Itchy boots. Riding her Himalayan, Basanti, she burnt out her clutch (In Iran? Somewhere around there, I think) Bike was unrideable but she had a spare and it was fixed on the side of the road by a street mechanic. Zoom forward to this year when she's in Africa and riding a Honda. Clutch burnt out on that, and she had a horrible time trying to find a town with a mechanic that was experienced enough to work on the Honda, and had to have a new clutch flown out. Some might say such things are the bread and butter of travel, and for them that might be right, but in that situation I'd rather have the tools and spares.

Maybe that paints a picture of a traveller who carries a trailer full of spares. It needn't be that large a pack if you prioritise common failures such as reported here, and even a few zip-ties have saved me a breakdown.
 

RotorWrench

Well travelled
Location
USA
This one for a Honda beat looks physically identical, there was a question about whether it has a check valve to prevent fuel leakage when removing the tank.

Thanks, that looks like the one I was referring to. I may try it if I can't find another alternative.

The big question, especially with eBay stuff, while it may be "for" a Honda Beat, is it a Honda OEM part? The quality or reliability may be no better or worse than the RE pump motor.
 
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Thanks, that looks like the one I was referring to. I may try it if I can't find another alternative.

The big question, especially with eBay stuff, while it may be "for" a Honda Beat, is it a Honda OEM part? The quality or reliability may be no better or worse than the RE pump motor.
That one is sold from China, I would say that lessens the likelihood of it being OEM Honda.
 

Roy Gavin

Well travelled
65,000 here, on a 2017 carbed bike with the soft clutch and dud generator which were both upgraded by RE on later bikes, but I have had no problem with them.
Rear shock and steering head bearings dead at 11,000 km, ignition, starter and clutch switch failed but I have only a headlamp relay, indicators fell apart, carrier failed as soon as I put a top box on.
Screen cracked at mounting holes.
Sprocket carrier bearing shot at 16,000 km, which lets the rubber mounted sprocket twist a little which takes out the split link, so buy a spare when you replace the chain
Never lubed any suspension linkages and they are still fine. But not much mud water here!
Valves only needed adjustment at 25/ 30,000 km intervals.
Motul 7100 and revs kept below 5000!
The carrier and indicators are different on later bikes, and the switches are now protected by relays, but they seem to have brought their own problems---!
But I know of folks who have blown two motors in 5,000 km or a clutch on one hill.
Folk in the trade will tell you that warranty claims tend to follow owners more than vehicles.
And old farts who grew up with Brit bikes will have learnt to have a bit more sympathy for their steed.
 

Bluestrom13

Well travelled
Location
- GB -
Oh man I sure hope this isn't the secret sauce because otherwise my steed is going to be toast. These 80MPH freeways are not kind to my RPMs.
Seriously?
Ohhhh Dear.....
By which I mean that it handles 55 to 65mph roads with ease. Motorways were not invented when this technology was.
TEC / Hitchcock's Cam, 16T sprockets...... And 80mph continuous will still be a stretch, I think.

The promotional "Built for ALL roads" uses quite a bit of license.
 

Roy Gavin

Well travelled
Oh man I sure hope this isn't the secret sauce because otherwise my steed is going to be toast. These 80MPH freeways are not kind to my RPMs.
If you bought the bike to ride freeways at 80 MPH you bought the wrong bike.
Just pick an alternative route.
The 5000 revs related to valve clearances, the tendency yo reduce clearances might be due to valve stretch, and hammering them onto the seats at 7000 revs will do that around twice as fast as 5000, and a longer duration cam which has to close them faster wont help either.
 

RotorWrench

Well travelled
Location
USA
Nice read, thanks - I do enjoy and value others experiences. And I certainly embrace light travel when being local and in a place where recovery back to home is probable. (I maintain my own bikes)

But travelling abroad, especially in an area where your bike is unusual or where support is limited - I would carry some spares. Things like throttle and clutch cables, a spare clutch, oil filter - the stuff that's hard to get in that country. I mean, be sensible - taking that stuff to India for a himmie would be daft!

One real world example that sticks in my mind is Itchy boots. Riding her Himalayan, Basanti, she burnt out her clutch (In Iran? Somewhere around there, I think) Bike was unrideable but she had a spare and it was fixed on the side of the road by a street mechanic. Zoom forward to this year when she's in Africa and riding a Honda. Clutch burnt out on that, and she had a horrible time trying to find a town with a mechanic that was experienced enough to work on the Honda, and had to have a new clutch flown out. Some might say such things are the bread and butter of travel, and for them that might be right, but in that situation I'd rather have the tools and spares.

Maybe that paints a picture of a traveller who carries a trailer full of spares. It needn't be that large a pack if you prioritise common failures such as reported here, and even a few zip-ties have saved me a breakdown.
As I said previously, I totally agree that it's prudent to carry spares, predominantly based on the type and distance of your journey. Everyone has their own philosophy and practice based on prior experience, the bike and/or advice or recommendations.

I prefer to ensure my major components are in good order, rebuilding or replacing if necessary before a major trip, regardless of the conditions of travel.

For example, I've made four trips to Alaska, a good portion being gravel and rarely traveled routes, and before each one, I repacked my head, wheel and swingarm bearings before the trip. If they were questionable I replaced them. I checked the clutch, cables, chain, sprockets, replaced headlight if I've had it awhile, cleaned injector, etc.... Checked torque and LocTited most fasteners, especially structural or major. The spares I carried mainly consisted of bulbs, fuses, some hardware, master links, tubes, spark plug, electrical wire, chain lube, a couple of relays etc.. but nothing major.

On the Dakar I religiously replaced the water pump seals and impeller if I had over 20k miles on them before a trip because they were prone to failure. Same for the radiator fan motor. I lost one outside of Carmacks, Yukon Territory and was lucky to find a marine bilge pump motor that fit perfect.

Basically I'm saying I prefer to ensure my bike is in as safe and realistically reliable condition as I can make it before a major trip, carrying as little as possible in the way of spares, traveling as light as possible, accepting the possible but unlikely risk of a stranding failure. In hundreds of thousands of miles of, what is now called "adventure" or "overlanding", motorcycle travel, I have never been stranded anywhere. Breakdowns? Definitely yes, many times, but only twice requiring parts I didn't have on me, once in the Yukon (fan motor) and once outside Talkeetna, AK (wheel bearing, before I started preventive practices).

Any motorcycle at any time can break down due to numerous reasons but preventive maintenance goes a long way towards mitigating stranding scenarios. Three years ago I sold a 2001 Dakar F650GS to a coworker with a little over 170k miles on it. That bike's engine has never had any repair work done to it except for a piston replacement ( metal found in filter during an oil change in Yellow knife, 90k miles on it) and the preventive replacements of water pump seals and impellers. Original clutch, drive train and fuel system components and it's still being ridden. Same for the rolling chassis except for suspension parts and bearings. I attribute it to quality parts, preventative and regular maintenance as well as, yes, luck :)

Now I am well aware of the fact that the Himalayan is not in the same class as the Dakar as far as engineering and quality of components but it's simplicity and under-engineering goes a far way in contributing to a bike with the potential of being every bit as reliable as my Dakar.

Speaking of Itchy Boots, if I was to do any traveling abroad or in remote third world countries I would prep no different than I do for my Alaska and northern Canada trips, including the carrying of spares. I have plans for a four week trip two years from now riding the basic route of the Trans Siberian Railway to Irkutsk. If I still have the Himalayan I will probably carry spares based on what replacement non-OEM parts I have been able to change to. No engine parts except for gaskets or seals and I will probably rebuild the clutch beforehand, if not done close before. I will be shipping a tire and tubes to a friend in Irkutsk for the return trip.

Itchy Boots doesn't camp but stays in accommodations along her routes. Correspondingly, since carrying no camping gear at all, nor much food and water, she can easily carry much more in the way of spares than I can. She also buys used bikes with unknown maintenance histories but does have them checked out. Prior use before her purchase could explain her bad luck with clutches but I believe it more likely her riding style. Just speculating 🙄.

We're in agreement with the obvious practicality of carrying spares, but I personally choose to do what I can to lessen the need of it and willingly accept the risks. It's worked for me so far, knock on wood 😛
 

RotorWrench

Well travelled
Location
USA
If you bought the bike to ride freeways at 80 MPH you bought the wrong bike.
Just pick an alternative route.
The 5000 revs related to valve clearances, the tendency yo reduce clearances might be due to valve stretch, and hammering them onto the seats at 7000 revs will do that around twice as fast as 5000, and a longer duration cam which has to close them faster wont help either.
Agreed 👍
 

JimboDevon

Finally made it
Location
Devon, UK
(2022 Euro5 model, about 3000Km)
No problems at all until Friday...when I really needed it not to break down as I had a 3 hour journey to join a boat in Portsmouth. After 1.5 hours the bike died.
Checked the obvious electrical things... relays all seated properly (they are newish bosch ones so not expecting them to fail but I swapped them round anyway with no effect), unplugged and remade all connectors I could easily get to. Had no tools with me other than the bare minimum so couldn't do much proper testing.
Fuel pump isn't priming although there is a ghost of a sound which may or may not be it trying to. I suspect a dodgy electrical connection has given up the ghost after being shaken around hammering along the A35.
Recovery service proved useless so I abandoned the bike and traveled to Cowes to meet my mates by busses, trains, 2 ferries and a lot of walking instead.
All I need to do now is work out how to get the bloody thing home...
 

JimboDevon

Finally made it
Location
Devon, UK
(2022 Euro5 model, about 3000Km)
No problems at all until Friday...when I really needed it not to break down as I had a 3 hour journey to join a boat in Portsmouth. After 1.5 hours the bike died.
Checked the obvious electrical things... relays all seated properly (they are newish bosch ones so not expecting them to fail but I swapped them round anyway with no effect), unplugged and remade all connectors I could easily get to. Had no tools with me other than the bare minimum so couldn't do much proper testing.
Fuel pump isn't priming although there is a ghost of a sound which may or may not be it trying to. I suspect a dodgy electrical connection has given up the ghost after being shaken around hammering along the A35.
Recovery service proved useless so I abandoned the bike and traveled to Cowes to meet my mates by busses, trains, 2 ferries and a lot of walking instead.
All I need to do now is work out how to get the bloody thing home...
I can confirm the fault was with the fuel pump. Stuck but not permanently broken. Got it moving again by blipping it in the wrong direction by swapping positive and negative wires as suggested by someone else on this forum :)
 

RotorWrench

Well travelled
Location
USA
I can confirm the fault was with the fuel pump. Stuck but not permanently broken. Got it moving again by blipping it in the wrong direction by swapping positive and negative wires as suggested by someone else on this forum :)
Ok, this issue is making me paranoid now. If reversing the current is resolving the problem then one of two things is occurring, possibly related to each other or not.

1- Debris (regardless of source) is either blocking screen and no fuel flow (pump would still run) or it's binding the pump (pump wouldn't run), in which reversing the pump motor would free it up by displacing the blockage.(if it's a reversible motor)

2- Pump motor is binding due to pump motor or pump problem. It is not uncommon for electric motors to stick or bind and a reversing of current frees them up. I've experienced this on aircraft as well as a truck I've owned. Causes for these are the units themselves and if recurring the pump needs replacement.

What concerns me more with scenario #1 is the possibility of debris making it downstream into the metering orifices and injector. It happens and is sometimes a pain to isolate based on the symptoms.
 
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JimboDevon

Finally made it
Location
Devon, UK
Ok, this issue is making me paranoid now. If reversing the motor is resolving the problem then one of two things is occurring, possibly related to each other or not.

1- Debris (regardless of source) is either blocking screen and no fuel flow (pump would still run) or it's binding the pump (pump wouldn't run), in which reversing the pump motor would free it up by displacing the blockage.

2- Pump motor is binding due to pump motor or pump problem. It is not uncommon for electric reversible motors to stick or bind and a reversing of current frees them up. I've experienced this on aircraft as well as a truck I've owned. Causes for these are the units themselves and if recurring the pump needs replacement.

What concerns me more with scenario #1 is the possibility of debris making it downstream into the metering orifices and injector. It happens and is sometimes a pain to isolate based on the symptoms.
If I'd had the time I'd have dismantled it all and done a proper analysis of the cause. But I didn't.
I did read somewhere (may not have been this forum though) that someone who had this problem found bits of hairy stuff jamming the pump. He thought they'd come from the fuel filter.
 

RotorWrench

Well travelled
Location
USA
If I'd had the time I'd have dismantled it all and done a proper analysis of the cause. But I didn't.
I did read somewhere (may not have been this forum though) that someone who had this problem found bits of hairy stuff jamming the pump. He thought they'd come from the fuel filter.
Related, I shared on another thread after a poster commented on finding metal shavings in their tank, that during my 300 mile service I also found metal shavings and debris in my pump screen, found more in my tank so cleaned and flushed both pump and tank.
 

Roy Gavin

Well travelled
On my carbed bike there were black flakes of what looked like silicone adhesive which had been used to hold the large O ring on the fuel level sender during assembly.
But I always tip and flush the tank at a major service anyway, with today's fuels.
Most auto systems have the gauze filter in the tank and also a inline filter downstream of the pump. And also a bigger unreachable well in the tank. .
Additional in tank filters for the Hima are around, at a pretty solid price.
With my BMW F650GS the SA guy who developed and sold the first code GS911 reader to crack BMW' s codes also sold a replacement pump, in line filter and adjustable pressure gauge - he found fuel pressure to be critical if the bikes were to perform properly.
Folk seem to suggest alternative pumps for the Hima without even knowing the pressure rating - go figure!
 

RotorWrench

Well travelled
Location
USA
Folk seem to suggest alternative pumps for the Hima without even knowing the pressure rating - go figure!
True, why I think I'm going to order a couple of motors from Himalayan Tools as I was told by the dealer I bought my bike from their motors are supposedly the same pressure rating. I'll verify before installing. The Honda one I have no idea.

fuelpump1-620x1024-600x600.jpg
 
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