- Location
- Southern UK
Isn’t the fuel pressure controlled by a valve in the pump housing ? As long as the ‘Honda’ pump will provide enough pressure (very likely imho) and fit in the housing it should work fine. I’ve not tried one yet though.
What issues have you had at 5K
- Thread starter Hvymtlc5
- Start date
Roy Gavin
Well travelled
- Location
- Adelaide Australia
I did say rating, not setting.
That is, is it rated to produce enough flow and pressure for optimum performance, without overheating the pump and fuel.
Most spring controlled pressure valves are only accurate to +- 2 1/2 PSI and on some systems the difference between minus and plus is the difference between a slug and a flier.
So always worth checking/ selecting , injector pressure is usually a Pros first call, as low pressure gives poor atomisation / burn which can give a bum read at the o2 sensor and hence the wrong mixture .
And getting your pump to produce 120 PSI without using any more than 120 Watts was the key to getting a injected Triumph TR running reliably , any more overheated the fuel and that caused problems !.
Which is why folks upgrade the pump, pressure regulator, filter and sometimes the injector on other bikes. More usually race bikes.
FWIW Rimmer now have a packaged PRF set up which sorts out the Triumph TRs---!
That is, is it rated to produce enough flow and pressure for optimum performance, without overheating the pump and fuel.
Most spring controlled pressure valves are only accurate to +- 2 1/2 PSI and on some systems the difference between minus and plus is the difference between a slug and a flier.
So always worth checking/ selecting , injector pressure is usually a Pros first call, as low pressure gives poor atomisation / burn which can give a bum read at the o2 sensor and hence the wrong mixture .
And getting your pump to produce 120 PSI without using any more than 120 Watts was the key to getting a injected Triumph TR running reliably , any more overheated the fuel and that caused problems !.
Which is why folks upgrade the pump, pressure regulator, filter and sometimes the injector on other bikes. More usually race bikes.
FWIW Rimmer now have a packaged PRF set up which sorts out the Triumph TRs---!
JimboDevon
Finally made it
- Location
- Devon, UK
While we're on the fuel pump subject, a little bit more information which might be useful for future forum readers:
My bike had failed to start a few times in the last week or so, but started OK immediately after charging the battery, with the charger still attached. I realise now that this was probably because the fuel pump was a bit clogged and the extra voltage was enough to get it going.
My bike had failed to start a few times in the last week or so, but started OK immediately after charging the battery, with the charger still attached. I realise now that this was probably because the fuel pump was a bit clogged and the extra voltage was enough to get it going.
RotorWrench
Well travelled
- Location
- USA
Definitely a possibility. A low battery could very likely prevent a sticking or obstructed pump from operating. Like Roy mentioned in an earlier post, the so-called filter in the pump housing is not very fine, more of a screen than filter, so smaller sediment and debris can still get through. If you don't find any appreciable debris then I doubt it was the cause.
Although debris could be a factor, combining a marginal battery with voltage /current drops due to bad or loose connections, bad grounds, weak relays etc... could also be a factor in failure to start. Some fuel pump motors are more voltage/current sensitive than others and anything below their rated power requirement will definitely effect starting, as well as consistent fuel flow/pressure during operation.
The last motorcycle I had developed an inconsistent surging at cruise and sometimes a fluctuating idle. It had been going on for a couple of weeks with no other noted issues and I had planned on dealing with it on the weekend. That Thursday morning as I was leaving for work the bike wouldn't start. After several attempts I gave up and took my truck. That evening during troubleshooting I finally found I had a loose relay connector. I'm suspectful that I caused the looseness during some prior maintenance. Cleaned and reconnected the terminal, bike started right up and no more surging or idle issues.
- Location
- Northern California
Keep it going, brother. She'll prolly start stretching out like a chill cat...well, mine sure did, and now I'm most likely to hit 20K miles by Halloween and she starts like new still and idles like whut ya want
The noly time my Toto sounds stressed out is in a headwind all by myself at 65MPH/102KMH or so. That said, mine seems to find the load easier every 1K miles. It's hard to explain; it's like the bike gets stronger. I'm def not losing weight (solid 215lbs), and my bike only has DNA Stage II and Booster Plug for performance mods
RotorWrench
Well travelled
- Location
- USA
I'm ordering the pump motor I found and when in hand will bring it to work and measure flow and pressure against the OEM motor, then take readings when installed in the pump housing out of curiosity.
It's Euro V, as sold in the EU in 2021. I have never understood where you find out what BS number your bike is! I believe the 2021 model in the EU is the same one released in the UK in that year, with the Tripper thing and the catalytic convertor bulge moved up to the vertical section of the exhaust pipe, in the front of the engine.
Thanks Gary - I had been wondering if there were any differences in reliability between the Euro 4 and Euro 5 models……for example whether the leaner burning Euro 5 engines lasted as well as the slightly richer Euro 4s.
Also some ‘identical’ parts will no doubt have been suppled by different manufacturers and CoVid must have had a bad effect on RE’s supply chain.
Also some ‘identical’ parts will no doubt have been suppled by different manufacturers and CoVid must have had a bad effect on RE’s supply chain.
- Location
- Southern UK
I’ve ordered a pump from China - looks identical and was £16 delivered. I’ll post something on here after it arrives and I’ve tried it.
- Location
- Southern UK
What sort of riding are you typically doing? Constant high speed/revs can result in excessive oil consumption, as can incorrect running in.Had my Himi from March. Now 1400 miles in and it looks like I am using a litre of oil every 1000 miles. Not happy.
Hello. Bike has been run in by the book and the last weekend away was ridden between 50 and 60 on roads. I was with mates on Hntr 350 and classic 350 so speed was never in the mix. Been riding bikes for 50 years now and had a few new bikes in that time so I understand the need to run in correctly. My friends bikes did not use a drop of oil. Any thoughts?
Roy Gavin
Well travelled
- Location
- Adelaide Australia
You might be overfilling it, if the motor breather vents into the air box check there.
If it was burning that amount it would usually show on the plug.
Unless it is the exhaust valve guide/ seal which is causing the problem.
A bore scope with the exhaust valve full open might show something.
Your dealer should help.
Edit- just noticed your other post , all already covered!
If it was burning that amount it would usually show on the plug.
Unless it is the exhaust valve guide/ seal which is causing the problem.
A bore scope with the exhaust valve full open might show something.
Your dealer should help.
Edit- just noticed your other post , all already covered!
Last edited:
- Location
- Southern UK
No doubt RE, as with most other manufacturers, have a figure for ‘acceptable’ oil use, - Honda was 1L/1k miles iirc, but this was on multi cylinder engines.
Whilst doing the other checks as suggested, it’s worth making sure the crank case breather pipe is actually clear, as excessive crank case pressure can cause oil usage.
Whilst doing the other checks as suggested, it’s worth making sure the crank case breather pipe is actually clear, as excessive crank case pressure can cause oil usage.
Talked to dealer today and will pick up bike tomorrow. Told me that they could find no probs with the engine, plug was clean, no visible smoke, no oil in air box or filter and no oil leaks. I have asked them to take pictures of the plug and make notes on the condition of the motor. I will keep a diary of the mileage and the oil needed up to 2000 miles and if the situation is not improving I will have to consider what to do next. Its such a shame I really wanted this bike.
- Location
- Southern UK
Just a thought, introducing fully synthetic oil too early in an engines life can cause issues with ring to bore seal and produce a glazed bore. This results in excessive oil consumption. If there’s nothing else obvious, it maybe worth running the bike fairly hard on a mineral oil for a few hundred miles to see if it makes any difference, although the correct solution is to have the barrel off and de glaze it mechanically. (if this is the problem)