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Battery positive terminal frustrations

SilverCycle

Well travelled
Am I the only one who finds it impossible to add any rings to the Himalayan's positive battery terminal without pulling the s*dding thing out and putting a foam filler under that stupid loose nut?

At least with this 23 it's a little harder to completely drop & lose the nut, like it was on wife's 2018. On that, when I finally took the battery out, I not only found "my" nut, but someone else's too.

I'm wondering about putting a threaded stud in instead of the OEM screw, so I can fiddle with my ring terminals without disturbing RE's connector. Does increase amount of unfused live metal though.

Maddening.
 

Bazza

Well travelled
Location
Scotland UK.
Not sure about silicone, Andyb. I use vaseline grease, for electricals, it's sticky and helps keep the wee nut in place. I also seal conectors with it, not too much, mind.
Though to be fair, I have been also putting a wee blob of foam under the nut. Belts and braces.
 

wspollack

Well travelled
Location
Niskayuna, NY
When dealing with battery-terminal bolts, I have often used a big plastic cable tie, looped underneath the nut, to hold and then sort of lift it in place, when putting the bolt back in. It's worked for me.

Also, on a couple of bikes over the years I have used Powerlet's Termin-8 early on. This is sort of a short, fused, extension cord; what the deal is: you add its single ring connector to the terminal bolt, and then you have the capability of adding four additional direct-to-battery connections without messing anymore with the actual terminal bolt. Here, a pic should help explain this:


Yes, it's pricey, but it's very handy and very well made.

On most bikes over the years, I have added fuse panels, with lots of switched and unswitched connections in the panels, but on two bikes I used the Termin-8, when I wasn't going to need a bunch of electrical farkles.
 
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Bluestrom13

Well travelled
Location
- - 'Coventry'
I'm wondering about putting a threaded stud in instead of the OEM screw, so I can fiddle with my ring terminals without disturbing RE's connector
"Fiddle with your ring terminals?
To what end?

If @wspollack 's suggestion is too expensive, what about a pair of pigtails?
My battery maintainer cables could do double duty.

OR.... fit a MotoBatt battery....Big(ish), brass, easily accessed, multi choice terminals.
 

SilverCycle

Well travelled
Well, it's true I'd like to fiddle with my ring terminals only once. Although I don't want to overcomplicate any future battery change.

And I have three of these bikes to do.

I used a little bit of foam sleeping mat to push the nut up, same as the various improvised springs above. That was fine.

A longer bolt didn't work. As soon as the bolt is long enough to reach a nut that sits at the bottom of its slot, it's too long to do up without fouling the bottom. That's a 16mm instead of the standard 12mm. Perhaps there's a nagic length, if one cuts it down. Threaded rod and a nut might be easier. But unnecessary with spring (foam) or I guess glue, as above.

It does seem unnecessarily awkward, for want of a little bit of plastic or foam.

I did consider a fused fan-out, done that before but space (height) is tight here...

Thanks all.
 

SilverCycle

Well travelled
Gotcha......(I think).
View attachment 15910
Exactly. Threadlock on the lower one only. And I figure it can be done without having to remove the battery. But didn't have the rod to hand.

I did try to poke my foam in without removing the battery, that just wound me up even more.

I've attached, now, a ring to my relay and etc, a ring to an SAE, and a ring to Gerbing heated clothing outlet. Each with inline fuse.
 

wspollack

Well travelled
Location
Niskayuna, NY
I have no beef with anyone's solutions and, heck, they're all good if they work for someone. We okay so far? That said, I hope no one minds, but I thought I'd add yet some more alternative info, for future readers of this thread, just to share some other experience.

As I said in an earlier post, on two bikes over the years I've used Powerlet's Termin-8 extension gizmo (but mostly added fuse panels, and several of those from Eastern Beaver, specifically its PC-8, https://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Wiring_Kits/Fuseboxes/fuseboxes.html).

What I really wanted to point out here is that on six bikes now I've added a Powerlet/BMW/DIN/Hella socket under the left thigh. Here are some examples:

15921

I keep doing this for several use-cases:

1) Powering heated gear (as shown on the Burgman, although I long ago replaced that straight, coax-to-Powerlet-plug, cord with a self-coiling one).

2) As a receptacle for a smart charger (having replaced the typical SAE-to-SAE extension cords that come with smart chargers with an SAE-to-Powerlet-plug extenstion, as shown in the Victory and BMW pics).

3) And, FWIW, most air compressors (I carry one in a saddlebag, along with a patch kit) have a Powerlet plug option, or you can get an adapter, if need be.

And I keep choosing the same under-the-left-thigh spot because:

- Heated gear connections invariably terminate by the left side of the waist.

- Draping a cord over the left thigh doesn't interfere with steering, doesn't interfere with a passenger, doesn't rub the body work, and provides the longest slack if you forget to unplug before getting off the bike (which most of us do on the left side).

- And using a Powerlet plug and socket for this, as opposed to the more common SAE setups, allows me to plug in or unplug that connection while sitting on the bike and with only one hand. I think those Powerlet/BMW/DIN/Hella plugs make very solid connections, both physically and electrically, so I've been using this kind of setup on all my bikes since 2007.

And so, naturally, I got around to doing this on the M350 a couple of months ago:

15922

Happily, this was the first time that I didn't need to actually mess with battery bolts to add the socket. As many dealers do, mine had added an SAE pigtail for charging (or whatever). Since I wasn't going to mess with the battery on the Meteor for anything else -- no fuse box, no Termin-8, etc. -- I just moved the end of that pigtail from where the dealer put it -- on top of the engine case on the right side -- over to the left side, behind that cover.

And then I just terminated the wires from the Powerlet socket that I added with an SAE connector (instead of battery ring terminals), and plugged it into the dealer-installed pigtail. Oh, and I changed the fuse in the pigtail from 7.5 amps to 15 amps, and I was done. If you want to see some more pics of this process, drilling the hole, etc., my description of this mod starts with this image-and-caption in my Meteor gallery:


That's all I got, and I hope maybe someone finds maybe some of this useful. On the Victory forum, I did have at least one guy follow my lead (and I have a pic of his work in my Vic gallery).
 

SilverCycle

Well travelled
Actually I'll upvote that last. My wife loves her Gerbing heated kit (although actually it's pretty troublesome, she's gradually shifting to another brand with the same plugs), and I occasionally resort to their heated gloves. So every bike we've ever had has a Gerbing 2.5mm coax dangling by the riders left knee.

And our garage trickle charger and our electric tyre pump have both been hacked over to use the same style. Used plenty.

A slight defect is that to cope with charging and with pump, the fuse has to be quite a lot bigger than is ideal for heated gloves alone.

(Incidentally, Optimate make an SAE to 2.5mm coax adapter cable, available in the UK from SBS.)

But for our Hims, riding in the USA, where, as I understand it, every shop has an SAE, I will fit both!
 

Andyb

Well travelled
Location
UK
Oh, yeh, I thought that, is it not awkward to remove, if ever?
The silicon adhesive just fills the space below the nut so it can not drop downwards, the bolt is not glued. Never felt the need to remove a nut again but if I needed to I am sure the silicon adhesive would shear. Tried bent cable ties and foam in the past and they usually work but sometimes fall out. I just wonder why the posts are not designed to hold the nut higher up?
 

CajunRider

Well travelled
What I really wanted to point out here is that on six bikes now I've added a Powerlet/BMW/DIN/Hella socket under the left thigh.
My first BMW had a Hella Powerlet socket. At first I hated the fact that it wasn't a "normal" cig-lighter like most American cars used to have.

Then I used it... man, it is better than a cig-lighter!!!! No more backing out and losing power because of a large bump in the road!!

Now, every car & bike I have gets a Hella Powerlet socket. (y)
 
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