CiscoGoodDog
Well travelled
- Location
- California, USA
Has anyone used the cam lock tool when adjusting the tappets? Does it help to find TDC and make adjusting the tappets easier?
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Meteor 350 tappet tool
- Thread starter grosseair
- Start date
mickyd3d
Getting there...
- Location
- Clacton-on-Sea
I haven't used the tool yet. Simply because I haven't reached 300 miles yet.
As I understand it, the tool isn't required but just another bit of security for people like me not wanting to mess things up.
And I don't want to be held to ransom by the rip off servicing prices.
I've already invalidated my warranty just by fitting a rear rack...
Ride with Warro didn't use the tool because he couldn't get hold of one.
Please understand these are just my opinions.
As I understand it, the tool isn't required but just another bit of security for people like me not wanting to mess things up.
And I don't want to be held to ransom by the rip off servicing prices.
I've already invalidated my warranty just by fitting a rear rack...
Ride with Warro didn't use the tool because he couldn't get hold of one.
Please understand these are just my opinions.
CiscoGoodDog
Well travelled
- Location
- California, USA
I'm sure my dealer wouldn't touch my bike now that I've made so many changes ;-)
CiscoGoodDog
Well travelled
- Location
- California, USA
Yes, I didn't need the tool to line up the cam at TDC. With the spark plug removed it is very easy to turn the crank. I used a 17mm socket on a 3/8" speed brace. After setting the tappet gap I rotated the crank back to TDC (compression) and checked again. I would think the cam lock tool would just get in the way.
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KEN ROCK.
Well travelled
- Location
- Warwick Queensland
Glad you got it sorted mate
sanjayman808
Getting there...
- Location
- Nepal
how
can i get this cam tdc tool from india
sanjayman808
Getting there...
- Location
- Nepal
how to get meteor tappet adjust tool or cam timing tdc tool from india? please provide me any online shopping or any shop name
mickyd3d
Getting there...
- Location
- Clacton-on-Sea
Below is a link to Hitchcocks (where I purchased mine) but is showing as 'Currently unavailable'.
Send them an email and ask when it will be back in stock.
Search Results
accessories.hitchcocksmotorcycles.com
Hope that helps.
CiscoGoodDog
Well travelled
- Location
- California, USA
Hopefully back in stock by this spring when Hitchcock's intends to have a performance cam available for the 350. I will order a cam lock and crank lock pin so that I can take out any cam chain slack when replacing the sprocket on the new cam shaft ;-) Humm, I'll probably need a side case gasket too.
markm228
Well travelled
- Location
- Easton, PA
Did you try your local, Royal Enfield dealer? That's where I got the cam lock for my Meteor 350.
sanjayman808
Getting there...
- Location
- Nepal
do anyone have number or online shop in delhi, india location so that i can order it or call?
Meteorite
Well travelled
- Location
- British Columbia on a Meteor 350
An old thread for sure, but the few recent posts indicate some members are still wondering about, or looking to buy this tool. You DO NOT need it. Once you see the hole where that tool sits into is pointing straight up, the cam will not move on its own during the valve lash inspection.
Just make sure you are rotating the crankshaft in the correct direction (counter clockwise) to find TDC of the compression stroke, which is indicated when you see the intake valve has fully closed and the hole is facing up.
Just make sure you are rotating the crankshaft in the correct direction (counter clockwise) to find TDC of the compression stroke, which is indicated when you see the intake valve has fully closed and the hole is facing up.
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CiscoGoodDog
Well travelled
- Location
- California, USA
Working from the left side of the engine, I'm pretty sure the direction of rotation should be counter clockwise. I am planning on installing a performance cam in my Meteor (when available from Hitchcock's). I may need both the cam lock tool and crank lock pin to properly reinstall the cam sprocket. I do agree that it is not necessary just for valve adjustment ;-)
Meteorite
Well travelled
- Location
- British Columbia on a Meteor 350
Thank you for pointing out my error. I have corrected that. I blame the brain fart on 27 years of turning my ST1100's engine clockwise when checking its 16 valves.
Meteorite
Well travelled
- Location
- British Columbia on a Meteor 350
Since this thread title does mention the tappets, it may be useful to mention something about the valve cover bolts for those DIY'ers who come to read it for their first time valve inspection.
The three valve cover bolts are "shoulder" bolts. When you have them out, you can see what that means. They are designed to go only as far into the head to where the shoulder contacts the head. The valve cover bolt seals under those bolts are compressible and do the job of keeping oil from leaking past them. Once the bolt seats against the head, the seals have been compressed and are doing their job.
So it is very important not to over tighten those bolts, as you risk shearing the threaded section off, leaving it embedded into the head with a great deal of aggravation required to remove them. There have been many woeful tales of this happening on the 650 forums I have watched, which have the same type of bolts.
Consequently, you should not, do not, need to use a torque wrench on those bolts, regardless of the manual giving a torque spec. All torque wrenches are not created equal, depending on how much you may have paid for one. An error of just one foot pound could be the straw that breaks the camel's back, or bolt in this case.
Once the bolt seats, which is easy to feel, just lightly snug it up and you are good to go. The bolt seals may be reusable once, but should be replaced after that, as they do lose their compressibility over time. I reused mine after the first inspection without issue.
The three valve cover bolts are "shoulder" bolts. When you have them out, you can see what that means. They are designed to go only as far into the head to where the shoulder contacts the head. The valve cover bolt seals under those bolts are compressible and do the job of keeping oil from leaking past them. Once the bolt seats against the head, the seals have been compressed and are doing their job.
So it is very important not to over tighten those bolts, as you risk shearing the threaded section off, leaving it embedded into the head with a great deal of aggravation required to remove them. There have been many woeful tales of this happening on the 650 forums I have watched, which have the same type of bolts.
Consequently, you should not, do not, need to use a torque wrench on those bolts, regardless of the manual giving a torque spec. All torque wrenches are not created equal, depending on how much you may have paid for one. An error of just one foot pound could be the straw that breaks the camel's back, or bolt in this case.
Once the bolt seats, which is easy to feel, just lightly snug it up and you are good to go. The bolt seals may be reusable once, but should be replaced after that, as they do lose their compressibility over time. I reused mine after the first inspection without issue.
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